- Altyn-Beshik via the North Ridge.
The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 104–106).
Length — 900 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours.
From the "Kirgizata" alp camp (group of 4-12 people) go down the road to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge and, turning left, ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River in the eponymous gorge to the first side gorge (сай). Here, turn right and ascend along the pack trail on the right side of the side gorge, then across the moraine and scree up and right, to reach a small plateau between the Altyn-Beshik peak and a solitary gendarme.
From the alp camp — 3–3.5 hours.
On the plateau is the initial bivouac.
From the plateau, go left and up along the easy rocky Western Ridge to the 1st rocky rise.
Bypass the rise by traversing across the scree on the right to a couloir.
Through simple steep 45–50° rocks on the left, then right side of the couloir ("live" rocks, drippy ice, piton belay), make a 100–120-meter ascent to the North Ridge.
Along the horizontal 40-meter North Ridge, a 5-meter moderately difficult wall, and 50–60 meters of easy North Ridge on scree, reach a scree shelf below the 2nd rise.
Traverse left across the shelf to an edge.
Up 140–150 m along the snow-covered simple but steep rocks of the edge (piton belay) to the North Ridge.
Along the easy scree-covered 180–200-meter North Ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right, ascend to the summit of Altyn-Beshik.
From the small plateau — 3–3.5 hours
Warnings
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