DATE, TIME Denot. CR: Diff. Av. Rate CHARACTER OF RELIEF DIFFICULTY STATE, WEATHER CONDITIONS INSURANCE PROGRESS

Approaches: The northern wall of Gelintashta faces the town of Mazār. The basic camp can be set up in the juniper forest to the west of it; the approach takes no more than half an hour. The juniper forest can be reached from the town of Osh via Iski-Naukat and up the Kyrgyz-Ata valley through the Karakoy forestry enterprise and further along a bad road on the right (or.) bank of the Suichikty River in 3 hours.

Classification Proposals

We allow ourselves to refer to the experience of mountaineering instructor V.G. Mironov, according to whom the route we have taken exceeds the complexity of category 3B of his practice in "Talgar" and "Artuch". The route was repeated by two other groups of CHOKVAM-77, who, however, did not consider it worthy of classifying as category 4A, since they did not waste time reviewing options and followed strictly our description.

Let there be a strong 3B - not inferior to "Kievyanka". Therefore, we ask to include the route in the Classification table of routes to mountain peaks of the USSR as

Gelintasht 3900 m 3B sk. by N. wall

ISSUING PARTY'S NOTES: According to the debriefing protocols of the 2nd and 3rd ascents, there is no clear opinion about the difficulty of the route. But each group spent 6 working hours, also having a girl in their composition.

In the 2nd group, they made ropes: – in the 1st place — for everyone; – once again — only for the girl. It was noted that 4th category sections on the route undoubtedly exist, but to classify it as 4A would be to create a precedent when for all young mountaineers of Osh and other cities of the Fergana valley Gelintashta would become the FIRST 4A in their lives. And for the first 4A it is too difficult to navigate; let it be 3B, let instructors lead it or ... no, it won't be led by guides for 3B.

In the 3rd group, they made ropes once. They noted that the route is easy to read, it is logical, ensuring safety measures on it does not require special tricks: there are many crevices, rocks are dissected, but the presence of living grips requires the ability to climb softly.

If you go in three-carat shoes, you generally can't even climb — qualification is required for non-risky, stable climbing. With a long rope, the relief bends deprive clear communication with a partner. Parallel work of rope teams is excluded.

I believe that the repeating groups, having read these conflicting opinions of the CHOKVAM-77 groups, will draw their own conclusions and will be responsible for passing the northern wall of Gelintashta — the closest "troika-B" to the town of Osh. Senior mountaineering instructor (cert. No. 0245) MS

Levin MS

R1–R2 section