Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

1. Geographical Location of the Climbing Area and its Sporting Characteristics The traverse of the Akkem Wall was carried out in the Central Altai region, in the highest area of the Katunsky ridge. This region is home to several peaks over 4000–4200 m, including the highest point in Altai - Belukha mountain (4506 m). The powerful double-headed Belukha massif (over 70 km), rising half a kilometer above the surrounding peaks, divides the entire Katunsky ridge into two parts, differing in height and character. To the west, the peaks do not exceed 3300–3400 m, rising only 300–400 m above the snow line and lacking significant snow cover. To the east of Belukha, the ridge continues, almost without descending, for about 50 km with peaks reaching 3600–4000 m. The main center of glaciation of the Katunsky ridge is the Belukha massif (the Eastern and Western peaks are separated by a relatively shallow saddle 40–50 m).

• To the north, the massif drops off with a very steep rocky wall over 1000 m high.
• To the south, it slopes more gently towards the surface of the Katunsky glacier. Six valley glaciers descend from the slopes of the Belukha massif, two of which (Katunsky and Chyorny), located on the southern and southwestern slopes, give rise to the Katun River, the main water artery of Altai. Most of the glaciation of the Belukha massif is concentrated on its northern slopes. From here:
• To the west flows the Myshutaiyry glacier (Kucherlinsky), giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Katun.
• To the north - the Akkemsky glacier, feeding the Akkem River, also flowing into the Katun.

Report

on the second traverse of the peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the central counterfort, main ridge, from Akkem glacier, 5B category of difficulty (KTMGV #1.31) by the team of Altai Regional Sports Committee and Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia. Team leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category. 1996. PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall to the right of peak XX let Oktyabrya The photo was taken from Akkem glacier in 07.1994. Camera — "Smena-8M".

Ascent Passport

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ 1.1. 67 pg.1 6А3 м. 5 dated 15.03.02

1. Region, gorge, KTGV section №: Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-kem gorge, № 1.1.34.
2. Peak: ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya; route name: via North-Eastern wall.
3. Proposed: 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley.
3. Korona Altaya peak 4170 m. Central part of the Eastern Wall.
4. Route 6B (Afanasyev's route variation, 2002).
5. Route height difference: 1120 m (wall base 3050 m – summit 4170 m). Route length about 1300 m (excluding the western plateau).
6. Wall section length about 1100 m (height difference about 1000 m).
7. Section length of 5th grade complexity ~490 m. Section length of 6th grade complexity ~275 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Altai, Akkem valley.
2. XX let Oktyabrya — Belukha Zap. — Delone via East counterfort (4A) of the Western plateau, traverse.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty variant.
4. Elevation difference 1500 m, length about 10 km. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55°, length — 1200 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 30 ice — 20
6. Travel hours — 32, days — 7 (including 2 days of bivouac on the route due to bad weather).

5р. 529, № 9 22/XI–83 55 п/м Петрашко

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

I. Climbing Object

The peak XX let Oktyabrya is located next to the Belukha massif and to the right closes the so-called Akkemskaya wall. To the northeast of the peak stand out pronounced pre-summit gendarmes, one of which is reached by the route taken by the team. Further to the northeast, the ridge leads to the peaks:

• Urusvati,
• Yu. Rerikh,
• N. Rerikh. To the southwest of the peak is a snow-firn plateau adjacent to Western Belukha. The overall orientation of the peak massif is northeast-southwest. In June-August. The climate in the climbing area in June-August is mostly rainy. According to long-term observations, the most favorable weather for climbing is in March and September. Unfavorable climatic conditions, inaccessibility, and relatively low altitude of the area determine the low attendance of the area. Although it should be noted that the area is promising in terms of the presence of interesting "unclimbed" routes and peaks up to 4200 m high. The path to the described route starts from Barnaul, through Gorno-Altaisk, Ust-Koksa, which can be reached by plane on a local airline. From Ust-Koksa to Tyungur, there is a bus (84 km). From Tyungur to Akkem Lake, you can only get by pack transport on a mountain trail, having previously overcome a forested pass on a mountain taiga road. This 58 km path is traveled with pack transport in three days. The second option is a helicopter, but due to prolonged bad weather, it can be expected for 10 days. We crossed the pass to Akkem valley from Kucherlinskoe Lake by geologists' car to the "kosh". Then all the cargo was carried to Akkem Lake on foot for 5 hours (in 3 trips) as we were unable to obtain horses due to the field work in the kolkhoz. However, we got excellent acclimatization.

Ascent Passport

1. CLASS — first ascent
2. REGION — Altai
3. PEAK — XX let Oktyabrya, left buttress of the eastern wall, 4167 m.
4. CATEGORY — proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. ELEVATION GAIN — 1200 m, LENGTH — 1500 m, LENGTH OF 6B cat. diff. sections — 425 m, AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF MAIN SECTIONS 70° (920 m), including 6 cat. diff. (75 m) 80°.
6. PITS (for passage / for belay) rock — 12 / 130, bolt — 1 / 6, chocks — 3 / 18, ice — 8.
7. CLIMBING HOURS: 55; CLIMBING DAYS: 5.
8. OVERNIGHT STAYS:

II. Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. 3. Peak 20 let Oktyabrya, 4188 m, via the right part of the E. wall. 4. Complexity category 6A, third ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length of 6A–6B category sections — 300 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°/3100–4100 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

Passport

I. Ice and Snow Climb Category 2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem gorge 3. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) via the left edge of the southeast wall of the central counterfort, combined route 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1167 m, total length - 1800 m. Length of the wall section - 1300 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 61° (3000-4050 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock 23, chocks 65, ice screws 27. 7. Climbing hours: 11, days - 1.