Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class. Ice.
2. Ascent area. Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Ak-oyuk via E. ridge. Height 3880 m. The route is snow-ice.
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B.
5. Route characteristics. Height difference 900 m. Average steepness 35–40°.
6. 8 ice screws were used for belay.
7. Number of travel hours: 12–13.
8. The ascent was made from camp to camp without an overnight stay.
9. Climbers:

V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr. Altai Section I. route No. 1. R16–R25?

Passport

1. Altai. Katunsky ridge, Akkem lake area.
2. V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr., height 3880 m.
3. Proposed 2B cat. complexity (report is submitted to change the category of complexity adopted in KTMGV of this route, 1B, which is clearly underestimated).
4. Height difference 950 m, length 1480 m.
5. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS Participants: Alshakov Valery Borisovich III rank, Voevoda Alexander Kuzmich III rank, Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna I rank, Vasin Viktor Anatolyevich III rank

An Over

From the base camp along Ak-kem lake to the right up a steep grassy slope into Ak-okk gorge (1 h) and further towards Burevestnik pass. Past two lakes, leaving the icefall descending from Ak-okk peak on the left, exit to the moraine in its upper part. Total time to reach the starting point — 2.5 h. The route starts in the same way as to per. Burevestnik.

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Участок R0–R1. Snow slope 40°, 200 m. 2nd diff. cl. The ridge is bypassed on the right. Участок R1–R2. Over rocks 55°, 60 m — to the main ridge 4th diff. cl. Участок R2–R3 — 150 m, 40°, main ridge, at the end a control point. Участок R3–R4 — 200 m — 50°, rocks 3rd diff. cl., in the direction to the sharp жандарму on the ridge. Участок R4–R5 — 150 m. To the right along the rock shelf 2nd diff. cl. Участок R5–R6 — left upwards along rocks and shelves 100 m, 50°. Descent. Участок R6–R7 — 20 m. Snowy rocks 55°, 4th diff. cl. Entry onto the edge. Участок R7–R8. 1st ва­лет on the ridge, from the left along the wall with a ще­лью, in counter-pressure 10 m. transition into a steep groove 15 m. Total length of the section 30 m., steepness 85°, 5th diff. cl.

6Б.АК-010К

160 m I

R13 100 m 40° II

R12 35 m 85° II

R11 45 m 45° III

R10 200 m 40° II

R9 50 m 75° II

R8 100 m 45° II–III

R7 30 m 85° II

R6 20 m 55° III

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Mensu gorge.
3. Belukha East, via the south-eastern slope.
4. Proposed — for category complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °.
6. Climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none.
8. Leader — Afanasyev A.E. Team members:

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants: