Passport

I. Ice and Snow Climb Category

2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem gorge

3. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) via the left edge of the southeast wall of the central counterfort, combined route

4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent

5. Height difference: 1167 m, total length - 1800 m. Length of the wall section - 1300 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 61° (3000-4050 m)

6. Pitons driven: rock 23, chocks 65, ice screws 27.

7. Climbing hours: 11, days - 1.

8. Overnight stay: on descent.

9. Leader: Plotnikov Ivan Alexandrovich, Master of Sports of International Class. Participant: Tumyalis Vladimir Vitalius, Master of Sports.

10. Coaches: Plotnikov Ivan Alexandrovich, Master of Sports of International Class, tel. 410-310. Kuznetsov Nikolai Alexandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

11. Start of the route: August 28, 1996. Summit - August 28, 1996. Return - August 29, 1996.

12. Organization: Altai Krai Sports Committee.

PHOTO #1. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m). Taken from Akkem glacier on July 15, 1994 at 16:30. Distance - 2.5 km, shooting point #1, height 2550 m. Camera - "Lyubitel". Routes:

1. I. Altaysky, 1983, via the right part of the E wall, 6A category of difficulty.
2. Team, 1996, via the left edge of the SE wall of the central counterfort, first ascent.
3. G. Andreev, 1963, via the central counterfort from Akkem glacier, 5A category of difficulty.

PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall from the right. Taken from the moraine of Akkem glacier in August 1996. Camera - "Smena-8M".

Tactical actions and route description

Any successful ascents in the mountains (especially in Altai) largely depend on weather conditions. Unpredictability of weather in Altai has always made adjustments to any ascents and hikes from 1 to 6 categories of difficulty.

Therefore, good knowledge of the area, its features, and vast experience of Altai climbers in traversing ice routes allowed Altai teams to successfully participate in the Russian championship.

R0-R1. The start of the route coincides with I. Altaysky's route via the right part of the east wall. The bergschrund is almost completely filled with snow, passage through it is not difficult. Further - an ice slope leading to a rock island. Along the rocks, via an inclined ledge - exit, initially under the 6A category of difficulty route, then under the rock bastion of our route. Movement is simultaneous and alternating, insurance via ice screws and rock pitons. A control cairn is left on the ledge.

R1-R2. Key section of the route. Complex rock bastion, steepness up to 70-75°. Rocks are monolithic, consisting of a series of large blocks, with mostly wide cracks at the joints.

In good weather and good route conditions, the bastion is climbed in free soloing. Movement is alternating, with organization of ropes on individual sections (for a pair). Insurance - using rock climbing equipment (large chocks, stoppers, "Friends" go well). At the end of the section, a control cairn is left on a piton.

R2-R5. After the rock bastion - a series of walls and ledges leading to an ice-snow knife edge with rock outcrops. Even in good route conditions, this is a difficult section. Steep rock blocks are heavily snowed, and cracks are filled with ice. Movement is alternating, using rock and ice climbing equipment. When exiting the wall - a snow cornice 1-1.5 m (chopped through).

R5-R6. Pre-summit ridge. Ice-firn slope, movement is simultaneous and alternating - exit to the summit. Descent is possible both via the left counterfort 4A category of difficulty, and via the northeast edge 4B category of difficulty (depending on snow conditions). Work on the route - in crampons. www.alpfederation.ru↗