ASCENT DOCUMENT
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Ascent category — rock climbing.
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Ascent area — Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain group.
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Peak — Zub Dragona Severo-Zapadnaya (Dragon's Tooth Northwest), 2000 m. Via the south wall.
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Estimated difficulty category 5B, first ascent.
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Route characteristics:
height difference 500 m, length 590 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 500 m, average steepness — 70°.
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130/32 cams used on the route.
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Total climbing time — 21 hours.
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One overnight stay on a ledge under a cornice.
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Group members:
Pushkarev Semyon Alekseyevich — Master of Sport, Lebedev Vladimir Aleksandrovich — Master of Sport, Sagan Sergey Anatolyevich — Candidate for Master of Sport.
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Coach Zakharov Nikolay Nikolayevich.
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Departure date 26 June 1997.
Summit 27 June 1997. Return 27 June 1997.
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Organization — mountaineering committee Krasnoyarsk-26.
- team route
Zub Dragona (general view)
Profile from the left.
Drawn profile of the route.
Area map.
Brief Description
0–1 — start slightly left of the large corner. To the right of two light green blocks ~20 m steep ledges with grass. 1–2 — move left into a crack going up-left to a wide (~10 m) crack. 2–3 — wide crack 15 m, bypass the slab on the right and along the grassy ledge left to the internal corner. 3–5 — internal corner. Hanging belay station. 5–6 — up 2 m, then left 2 m and through cracks and internal corner. Hanging belay. 6–7 — crack leading to a ledge. Control point. 7–8 — cracks, corners. 8–9 — chimney narrowing at the top. Difficult to organize protection. 9–10 — cracks 20 m. Small cornice, then 8 m on artificial aids, exit to steep grassy ledges and then to a good bivouac site under a cornice. 10–11 — right-up through "coils" and "foreheads" under the rusty system. 11–12 — left-up under the base of the large chimney of the couloir. 12–14 — chimney-couloir, loose rocks. 14–15 — left into the internal corner, exit to the summit.
UIAA Scheme.
Technical photograph
- team route
- invisible part of the route
- Δ — control point
