Ascent Log
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Ascent classification: technical
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Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
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Peak, route: Zvezdny via the NE wall
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Difficulty category: 6A, winter ascent
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Height difference: 700 m, with 700 m being wall ascent
Total length:
- 5th difficulty category — 220 m
- 6th difficulty category — 150 m average route steepness — 67°
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Pitons hammered on the route (for ITO)
Rock pitons 20/10, chocks — 140/60, bolted pitons — 20 (removable 8). Ice fifi were used on the route.
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Number of climbing hours/days: 47/6
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Night halts: all on the middle ledge in a hollow, lying down.
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Team: Zenovich E.V., CMS Proskurin A.V., CMS Timonin A.A., 1st sports rank
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Reconnaissance — May 4, 2002
Departure on the route: May 6, 2002 Summit: May 10, 2002 Return: May 11, 2002
Route Description by Sections
| Section | Description |
|---|---|
| 0–1 | Series of internal corners and ledges from left to right, 150 m, 50°, III–IV |
| 1–2 | Traverse of a snowy ledge left, 160 m, II, protection on friends, rock |
| 2–3 | Series of rocky formations with small ledges, traverse left, 50 m, 65°, IV+, pitons |
| 3–4 | Crack, 25 m, 70°, V− |
| 4–5 | Traverse left on flake formations, 6 m, 75°, V+ |
| 5–6 | Rocky formations with fragile flakes, 4 m, VI, 75° |
| 6–7 | Internal corner filled with ice, 40 m, 80°, V, photo 1 |
| 7–8 | Internal corner, 20 m, IV+, 75° |
| 8–9 | Couloir with snow leading to a ledge with a halt, 60 m, 45°, III |
| 9–10 | Sloping ledge covered with snow, 20 m to the right from the halt, 45° |
| 10–11 | Crack suitable for ice fifi, piton protection, VI, 50 m, 85°, photo 2 |
| 11–12 | Diagonal ledge with snow, 10 m, 45°, III |
| 12–13 | "Sheep's foreheads", 10 m, 65°, IV+ |
| 13–14 | Internal corner with a narrow crack, 40 m, 80°, V |
| 14–15 | Internal corner filled with ice, with a wide crack, plugged in the upper part, 25 m, 90°, VI, mid-section belay on 3 bolts 8 mm |
| 15–16 | Pendulum left 3 m to the level of the axis of rotation, with an exit onto a small ledge |
| 16–17 | Crack turning into an internal corner, 65°–50°, 20 m, III+ |
| 17–18 | Series of ledges over 6 meters, left, then right, exit above the belay point by 3 m, III, bolt |
| 18–19 | Rocky formations, 4 m, 90°, VI, ITO bolt |
| 19–20 | Cornice 0.5 m, exit onto rocky formations, 6 m, 70°, VI, ITO: piton and friend |
| 20–21 | Sloping ledge, 10 m, V |
| 21–22 | "Sheep's foreheads", 15 m, 70–85°, VI, skyhook, piton |
| 22–23 | Internal corner with a thin crack, 25 m, 85°, VI |
| 23–24 | Ledge, 2 m, bolt, III+ |
| 24–25 | Internal corner turning into a chimney filled with ice, 15 m, 60°, IV |
| 25–26 | Cornice 0.3 m, internal corner, 30 m, 80°, V |
| 26–27 | Internal corner left, leading to a snowy ledge, 15 m, 65°, IV− |
| 27–28 | Couloir with snow and stones, 60 m, IV−, 50° |
| 28–29 | "Sheep's foreheads", 15 m, IV+, 65° |
| 29–30 | Chimney forming an internal corner with a 10–15 cm crack, intersected by a cornice, 15 m, 75–80°, V |
| 30–31 | Wide chimney, climbed in opposition, 10 m, IV−, protection through plugs |
| 31–32 | Internal corner with a plug, 15 m, 60°, IV−, photo 3 |
| 32–33 | Along the ridge 50 m, 30° to the summit, photo 4 |
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