ASCENT REPORT
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
- Proposed category: 6A, variation.
- Route type: rock.
- Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter).
Route length: 539 m.
Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m.
Average steepness:
- main part of the route: 83°
- entire route: 66°
- Pitons left on the route: total 7; including 7 bolted pitons. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted pitons: 7, including for artificial aids. Removable bolted pitons: 6, including for artificial aids: 6. Total artificial aids (AIDs) used: 319.
- Team's travel time: 40 hours, days: 6.
- Leader: Morozov Daniil Vladimirovich, Candidate Master of Sports.
Team members:
- Tarnakin Yuriy Aleksandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Ustyantsev Andrey Alekseyevich, 1st sports category
- Bakin Aleksey Vladimirovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Bakin Aleksey Vladimirovich.
- Departure to the route: September 21, 2002.
Summit reached: November 26, 2002.
Return to Base Camp: December 26, 2002.
Area Photopanorama
Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols
| Section # | Pitons (hanging/length) | Stationary bolted pitons | Removable bolted pitons |
|---|---|---|---|
| I | 70/20 | – | – |
| II | 22/10 | 1 | – |
| III | 80/75 | 1 | 5 |
| IV | 85/35 | 1 | – |
| V | 2 | – | – |
| VI | 60/60 | – | – |
| Section # | Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, ° |
|---|---|---|---|
| R0 | 1 | 160 | 50 |
| R1 | 2 | 40 | 70 |
| R2 | 3 | 45 | 75 |
| R3 | 4 | 50 | 75 |
| R4 | 5 | 20 | 0 |
| R5 | traverse | ||
| R6 | 6 | 35 | 90 |
| Section # | Pitons (hanging/length) | Stationary bolted pitons | Removable bolted pitons |
|---|---|---|---|
| VII | 10/3 | 1 | – |
| VIII | 3 | – | – |
| IX | 12/12 | – | – |
| X | 4/4 | – | – |
| XI | 8/8 | – | – |
| XII | 3 | – | – |
| XIII | 27/27 | 1 | – |
| XIV | 5 | – | – |
| Section # | Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, ° |
|---|---|---|---|
| R6 | 6 | 15 | 90 |
| R7 (control pitch) | 5 | 5 | 90 |
| R8 | 6 | 10 | 105 |
| R9 | 6 | 10 | 90 |
| R10 | 5 | 10 | 80 |
| R11 | 6 | 1 | 100 |
| R12 | |||
| R13 | 6 | 13 | 80 |
| R14 | traverse | 50 | 0 |
| Section # | Pitons (hanging/length) | Stationary bolted pitons | Removable bolted pitons |
|---|---|---|---|
| XV | 12/3 | 1 | 1 |
| XVI | 8/8 | – | – |
| XVII | 8/4 | 1 | – |
| XVIII | 7/4 | 1 | – |
| XIX | 2 | – | – |
| Section # | Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, ° |
|---|---|---|---|
| R14 | 5 | 50 | 75 |
| R15 | 6 | 20 | 90 |
| R16 | 6 | 20 | 90 |
| R17 | 6 | 15 | 90 |
| R18 | 2 | 50 | 40 |
| Summit |
Technical Photos of the Route
Section R5 
Team member
Section R3–R4 
Summit photo (Morozov, Ustyantsev, Bakin)
Summit Photo
Explanatory Note
Due to low nighttime temperatures (down to –40 °C) during the team's work on the route, Zenit and Lomo cameras periodically malfunctioned. Therefore, the photo on sheet 1 was taken from the Internet (from a description by Balezina).
The route profile is not available. The remaining photographs were taken with a Sony Video 8 mm camcorder.
Due to the subtle relief (cornices, overhangs), the UIAA diagram is not to scale.