ASCENT REPORT
- Technical category
- Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
- Bodhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
- Category: 6A
- Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m)
Distance: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
- Pitons used:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| (2* + 20)/8 | (19* + 3)/12 | 145/30 | 5 |
* — reuse of previously driven pitons
- Team's moving time: 67 hours and 6 days
- Night stops: 1st (lying) — a platform on a scree shelf; 2nd (lying) — a comfortable platform on a shelf; 3rd (semi-reclining) — on a sloping shelf; 4th (lying) — a comfortable platform on the ridge
- Leader: Antonov Sergey Vasilyevich, Candidate Master of Sports
Participants:
- Vlaznev Dmitry Alexandrovich, 1st category
- Vlazneva Yulia Vitalyevna, Candidate Master of Sports
- Kurova Olga Pavlovna, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Antonov Sergey Vasilyevich
- Route reconnaissance: August 14, 1998
Departure: August 15. Summit: August 19, 11:00. Return: August 19, 18:00
- MTC "Alaudin"
- R0 — descent route
- R1 — G. Gulnev's route (1967) via NW face
- R1° — left variant of the start of the route via NW face
- R2 — A. Moshnikov's route (1987) via left part of W wall
- R2° — route via left part of W wall climbed by the team
- R3 — F. Zhitenev's route (1971) via left part of W wall
- R3° — variant of the start of F. Zhitenev's route
- R4 — V. Sedelnikov's route (1967) via the center of W wall
- R5 — N. Vlodarчик's route (1972) via right part of W wall
- R6 — A. Kolchin's route (1972) via right part of W wall
- R7 — V. Senchina's route (1972) via right part of W wall