Passport

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude technical.
2. Area of ascent — Pamir. Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route — p. Bodkhona 5304 m via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kolchin)
4. Characteristics of the ascent:
   • height difference — 1500 m;
   • length of complex climbing — 1300 m;
   • average steepness — 65°
5. Number of pitons:
   • rock — 122
   • ice — 1
   • bolt — 6
   • chocks — 33
6. Number of travel hours — 33
7. Number of nights and their characteristics:
   • Total — 3
   • 1 — rock ledge, sitting
   • 2 — ledge for a tent
   • 3 — ledge on the ridge
8. Team name: Voronezh team of Voronezh Regional Council "Zenit".
9. Team members: Aksenov V.N. — Candidate for Master of Sports Korenyugin I.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports Prilepina T.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports Dronov Yu.S. — 1st sports category
10. Team coach: Master of Sports of the USSR Zaev E.F.
11. Dates: departure on the route — August 17, 1982, return — August 20, 1982

Photo from the ridge in Chapdar.

Route Description

The route goes through the center of the wall. In the lower part — along the central buttress, the "bottle". In the upper part — along the central large crack, the "canyon". In the right part of the "bottle" a visible slit-chimney leads up to the neck of the "bottle". The chimney starts 30 meters from the base of the "bottle" in a large niche. Then, after exiting from under the cornice, along the wall, a little to the left of the chimney to the niche. After the cornice along the chimney or to the left of it to the level of the "gendarme". From its top upwards 30 meters to a niche and from there to the neck of the "bottle". From the neck upwards there are laid platforms. Up and to the left through a small cornice — into the cave. From the cave upwards and a little to the right goes a steep shelf, along it 30 meters, then straight up along the internal corner with an exit to a wide shelf going to the left. The shelf leads to a dead end. Movement straight up along the internal corner, turning into a shelf, which leads steeply to the left upwards. Along it ascent to the wide shelves of the Sidelnikov route. Along these shelves to the cornice, then upwards along the slabs or along the slit next to the black streaks to the easier stepped rocks leading to a platform under the sheer wall with black streaks. The beginning of the ascent is 15 meters to the left of the platform, then to the right upwards to a large shelf under the "canyon". Under the overhanging green rocks — a platform. Further along the "canyon" ascent to a large talus shelf. This is the end of the wall. Height 5000 m. Further there is another wall and along the ridge to the summit.

Table 1

Main Characteristics of the Route

Brief Explanation to the Table of Main Characteristics

Section R0–R1: Ice covered with snow. Simultaneous movement with piton belay. Section R1–R2: Vertical wall with black streaks. Passed on "mizers". Section R2–R3: Internal corner going up to the right. Free climbing, piton belay. The corner leads to an edge. Section R3–R4: Edge going up to the right. Piton belay. Section R4–R5: Inclined slab-ledge going up to the right. Free climbing, piton belay. To the left is a black rock with an overhang. Section R5–R6: Smooth slab. Climbed on friction. Piton belay. Movement to the right upwards. Section R6–R7: Inclined ledge leading to the right part of the "bottle". Section R7–R8: Horizontal ledge — place for overnight stay. Section R8–R9: Internal corner with overhang, passed using aid (ladders, étriers). Belay — bolt pitons. Section R9–R10: Traverse along the wall from right to left. Initially along a ledge turning into a crack on a vertical wall to an internal corner. Section R10–R11: Internal corner. Rocks are destroyed. Movement to the left upwards. To the right is a smooth grey wall. Exit to the left onto an edge (neck of the "bottle"). Section R11–R12: Smooth wall 8 m, movement straight up initially with a boost to a bolt piton, exit to the left onto an edge. Belay — bolt pitons. Section R12–R13: Smooth slab (shoulder of the "bottle") leading to the neck. To the right above is an overhang. To the left is a smooth internal corner. Movement along the middle of the slab along a crack, exit from under the overhang to the right. Section R13–R14: Grey wall. To the left above is a large cornice. Climbed along a crack, piton belay. Exit to a narrow ledge covered by a canopy of rocks. There are bolt pitons. Place for overnight stay. Section R14–R15: Wall. Start of movement from the platform along an internal corner, then straight up to the cave. Section R15–R16: Inclined ledge going up to the right. Rocks are icy. First climber moves along the edge. Section R16–R17: Wall. To the left and above is an overhang. Movement up under the overhang, then traverse to the right. Section R17–R18: Inclined ledge. Free climbing, piton belay. Section R18–R19: Movement along the ledge. Not reaching the internal corner — up along the crack. Section R19–R20: Exit to a ledge. Further movement along the center of the wall to the left upwards to wide ledges. Section R20–R21: Wall is an alternation of ledges and walls. Ascent to the visible cornice. The cornice is overcome by free climbing. Section R21–R22: After the cornice — exit to a slab. Along it straight up along a crack to stepped rocks. Place for overnight stay. Section R22–R23: Wall with black streaks. Ascent along the center of the wall. Piton belay. Section R23–R24: Movement along the "canyon" to a ledge. Section R24–R25: Start of movement along the ledge to the left upwards, then along the wall to the visible ridge. Section R25–R26: Movement along the ridge to the summit. Piton belay.