Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages:

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Patrush peak.
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference 200 m. Length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty – 150 m 1st category of difficulty – 400 m
6. Pitons not used.
7. Moving time – 2.5 hours
8. Group members: Baykovsky Yu.V., Gupalov A.

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Eastern peak of "Paltsy" via the North-West ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of complexity. First ascent.
5. Height difference 300 m. Length 500 m.
6. Length of sections — 1 category. 210 m. Pitons driven:

• rock — 2
• chockstones — 3
• ice screws — 1.

The name of the Sbboric peak is local. Translated from Tajik, it means thin water. Apparently, the name was given to the peak due to a stream running down from the peak's snowfields into the Archa — Maidan river. The Obborik peak is located in the southwestern spur of the ridge, running from the Pushnovat peak. The peak has the form of rocky towers, from which a long ridge stretches westwards all the way to the confluence of the Archa-Maidan and Pushnovat rivers. From the Sbboric peak, the northern slopes of the Dukhsar massif are clearly visible.

Description of the ascent

On August 23, 1963, at 7:60, the group left the base camp, crossed the Pushnovat river, and ascended the grassy slopes to the beginning of the long ridge leading to the peak. This ascent took 40 minutes.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — Moscow-Zerafshanskaya peak, 5183 m, via the NNE wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 1383 m. elevation gain of the wall section — 1250 m. total route length — 2400 m. wall section length — 1530 m.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Region — Fan Mountains 3. Peak — Moskva, 5183 m via the north wall through the hanging glacier 4. Anticipated Difficulty Category — 6B 5. Route Description: Total height difference — 1480 m. Characteristics of the wall section (rock and ice): height difference — 1290 m, including 131 m of ice wall, length — total — 1474 m, including 142 m of ice, sections of category V difficulty — 462 m, " — 15 m, category VI difficulty — 484 m, " — 95 m. Average steepness of the wall — 76°, including the lower

Recommendations and clarifications for ascending to the summit RED POINT via the East Ridge — 3–5 cat. difficulty. 0. The ascent to the ridge at the point of its significant lowering via snow ledges is clearly visible from below at the start of the route.

1. The slab in front of the grey pillar is bypassed on the left via a ledge-crevasse.
2. When bypassing the grey pillar on the right, it was necessary to cut 2–3 steps in the snow-ice slope.
3. A good platform /in the form of a practically horizontal slab on the ridge/ for overnight stay is available 30–45 minutes before reaching the grey pillar.
4. It's best to pass the gully with a plug in its upper part without backpacks.

Description of the ascent to the peak Krasnykh Zory (from the south, approximately) Peak Krasnykh Zory (4950 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Biiob river, in a spur extending in a southwest direction from the peak Bolshaya Ganza. The peak is rocky, almost without snow cover; ice is found in chimneys facing north. The rocks are heavily destroyed but have few cracks for driving in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges are well used for belays. The first ascent to this peak was made "to Krasnye Zori" in 1937 by the Rigzel-Kavakova group from the north. In the note left by the pioneers, it is indicated that they consider it as a 3B category of difficulty route. We undertook an ascent from the south along the ridge. Approaches to the peak from Lake Iskander-Kul: up the Sarytog river, then along the Arg river, and then along the Biiob river to its upper reaches. It is better to spend the night before the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. From the overnight site, we ascend along the dry riverbed through the moraine to the western ridge along easy but heavily destroyed rocks. We reach the southern ridge, bypassing several easy gendarmes on the right and left. The ascent to the southern ridge from the overnight site takes 3-4 hours. A note lies at the beginning of the route. The route can be divided into three sections:

1. from the start of the route to the first col;
2. from the first to the second col;
3. from the second col to the summit.

5.36.

30a Kidzal, 3A cat. diff., Southwest Ridge, A. Petrov, 1979 38.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Kidzal, 4291 m, via Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route description: Elevation gain 500 m, sections of 5th category difficulty 35 m, average steepness?
6. Pitons driven: rock, for belay: 5.
7. Duration: 7 hours from the bivouac under Anzak Pass.