PASSPORT

  1. Category of the first ascent.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via the pillar on the north face.
  4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 1050 m.

Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 760 m. Average slope of the wall part of the route — 75°, of the "pillar" — 81°.

  1. Number of pitons used:
rockplaced elementsboltice
2031393638
129102294
  1. Team's climbing hours — 118 and days — 10 (three days of processing).
  2. Overnight stays:

1, 2 — on the glacier under the wall; 3 — two people in hammocks, six under the wall; 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 — hanging bivouac, five (or six) in a suspended tent, three (or two) in hammocks; 9 — sitting bivouac on ice ledges.

  1. Team leader: Vladimir L. Bashkirov MS Team members:

    • Vladimir G. Kolomyttsev MS
    • Vasily I. Elagin MS
    • Anvar K. Alparov CMS
    • Yevgeny F. Klinetsky CMS
    • Vladimir K. Koroteev CMS
    • Sergey V. Mikhailov CMS
    • Alexander I. Shcherbakov CMS
  2. Coach: Yuri P. Tinin CMS

  3. Approach to the route — July 17, 1986 Summit — July 26, 1986 Return — July 27, 1986

  4. Organization — Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Executive Committee of the Moscow City Council.

Attached files

Sources

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