First Ascent of Hazor-Mech Peak via the Northeast Face, Category 3A Difficulty

MOSCOW — 1963 Hazor-Mech peak (View from the Shadon River valley) Map of the Fann Mountains area

Description of the Climbing Area

In the western part of the Zeravshan Range, between the Dan-Darya and Kshut-Darya river basins, lies a relatively isolated massif known as the Fann Mountains. The peaks of this mountain node reach heights of 5500 m (Chimtarga — 5487 m, Big Ganiza — 5415 m, Dukdon — 5208 m, Zengia — 5105 m, etc.) — a total of up to 10 peaks exceeding 5000 m. The Fann Mountains are situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar Ranges. Significant glaciation in this area is primarily found on the northern slopes. South of Big Ganiza peak, in the upper reaches of the Iskander-Darya River, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the large and very beautiful Lake Iskander-Kul, which is a dammed lake. This area remains understudied, and many peaks await their first ascents.

Central Council “Zenit”

Traverse of Dukdon Massif (first ascent)

N 418, October 13, 1970 5B

Team Captain Moiseev Yu. Team Coach Baskin S.

2. Simonik A. G.
3. Druy M. G.
4. Pisarev K. L.
5. Solodkov Yu. K.
6. Kopenningene L.

Dukdon — Central Peak, category 5B difficulty

Route Map

Description of the Ascent to Dukdon Peak, category 5B difficulty

The Dukdon peak, with an elevation of 5200 m, is located in the Fann Mountains of the Pamiro-Alay region. The Fann Mountains are characterized by fault-block structures without pronounced foldings. The main Zeravshan ridge lies aside. The Dukdon massif stretches approximately 15 km in a latitudinal direction and includes several peaks above 5000 m. The group targeted the central peak from which a southern spur branches off, transitioning into a parallel ridge. The approach to Dukdon begins from the village of Dji-Djik, where the motorable road ends. The route continues:

1. Along the Iskander-Darya River (3 hours).
2. Around Iskander-Kul Lake (1 hour).

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —

• Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.

4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1330 m,
• length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
• average steepness — 72°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Gardish, 4590 m, via the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1000 m, height difference — 1230 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons driven:

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours. Fig. 29.

9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

Conclusions

1. The ascent to the summit of Shlem via the western wall to the northern ridge is a rock climbing route of category 4B difficulty.
2. The total height difference: glacier — Shlem summit — 450 m.
3. The height of the western wall of the northern ridge — 200 m.
4. The average steepness of the wall — 70°.
5. The number of rock pitons hammered into the wall — 25.
6. The group took 16 hours to reach the summit from the glacier.
7. The most technically challenging sections:
8. 150 m rock couloir.
9. 80 m wall of the Shlem pinnacle.

8. Шлем from the south, route 4A category, fig. 4.

From the base camp (no later than 4 hours) up Siamese by moraines, and then, turning right, exit to the circus of the Bolshoy Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Шлем and Медвежий Замок. Ascend to the saddle over scree and snow. Control tour. From the saddle over scree on the right, exit to an indistinct ridge and over slabs to a wall 4 m high and up to 12 m wide. The wall is overcome on its right part. Piton belay, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which go to its end on the left under the next wall 2 m high. Behind the wall, cross the couloir along the ledge and exit onto inclined slabs of the ridge. Fig. 4. Move along the ridge for about 100 m with alternating belay until the ridge dips. Descend into the dip on a rope. Further movement is on the left side of the ridge over slabs. After 100–120 m, exit to a saddle under the summit wall. The wall is about 100 m high. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are climbed vertically upwards. The rock is difficult. Then move left and up along ledges to the base of a cleft, which is used to overcome the rest of the wall. At the top, the cleft leads to a wide (10–15 m) ledge with scree. On the entire wall, the belay is piton. From the ledge, move right and up a wide cleft (in the lower part, a chimney). The cleft leads to inclined slabs and scree of the summit dome. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. On the wall, re-rope and pull out the rope. The ascent takes 12–14 hours.