Northern Altai

Mountain range133,945.09 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 1Б to the summit Yubileynaya (3403 m) from the Container pass in Altai.

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit Yubileynaya from the Container pass, category 1B, by the team of the Sports club of alpinists "Voshozhdenie" (Barnaul) on May 3, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderLezhnev Anton Petrovich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBelov Petr Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank
Volkov Anton Leonidovich, 3rd sports rank
Zanina Natalia Nikolaevna, 2nd sports rank
Korobko Tatyana Vitalievna, 3rd sports rank
Malyshkin Vladimir Alexandrovich, 3rd sports rank
Pechyonkina Lyudmila Nikolaevna, 3rd sports rank
Shubin Alexander Yurievich, 3rd sports rank
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Report on the first ascent of category 3B route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the icy slope of the northwestern wall.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderKarlin Sergey Fedorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Tokareva Margarita Andreevna — 2nd sports rank, Tokarev Vitaly Viktorovich — 2nd sports rank, Khabarov Dmitry Alexandrovich — 3rd sports rank, Ryabinin Viktor Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank, Polivaeva Daria Andreevna — 3rd sports rank
1.3Full Name, sports rank of the leaderMakarov Oleg Nikolaevich CMS
1.4Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Melekhov Mikhail Gennadievich — 3rd sports rank, Kharitonov Sergey Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Altai Krai mountain (3579 m) with category 1B difficulty level via the north-eastern slope.

1.31

16

Protocol No. 15 dated November 24, 1997, item 3.

PASSPORT

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Altai South Chuya Ridge
  3. Pik Altayskoy Pravdy 3579 m via the north-eastern slope
  4. Proposed category 1B difficulty (first ascent)
  5. Elevation gain 200 m, distance 450 m
  6. Not used
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First ascent to the Brat peak (3700 m) via the N slope, cat. 2A in the Sofiysky Glacier area in Altai.

Passport

  1. Climbing category — first ascent.
  2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofia Glacier area.
  3. Peak Brat via N slope.
  4. Proposed 2A category first ascent.
  5. Height 3700 m, elevation gain 260 m, length 680 m.
  6. 4 ice screws.
  7. 13 hours of climbing time.
  8. No overnight stay required.
  9. Leader Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna, 1st sports category.
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Report on the ascent to the Janiiktu peak (3922 m) via the South-Eastern ridge from the Rubtsovsk pass, the complexity category is 1B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, section 1.3 of the classifier
  2. Dzhanikktu, 3922 m, via the southeast ridge from Rubtsovsk Pass.
  3. Proposed category: 1B.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1480 m. Length of sections with category V complexity: 0, category VI complexity: 0. Average slope: 30°.
  6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
  7. Team's travel time: 7 hours, 1 day.
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Ascent to the summit Irbistu (3967 m) via the western edge, 1B category of complexity, Altai, South-Chuya Ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, classifier section 1.3
  2. Irbistu, 3967 m, via the western edge.
  3. Proposed category: 1B.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 750 m. Route length: 1600 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 28°.
  6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
  7. Team's total climbing time: 7.5 hours, 1 day.
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Ascent to the summit of **Irbistu** via the center of the North-West slope, category 2B, Altai, South Chuya Ridge.

Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope, 2B cat. diff., combined, by Barnov S.I. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2

Passport

  1. Class: combined.
  2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
  3. Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope. Coordinates: (49°45.536′ N, 88°05.186′ E, height 3967, 3963 according to navigator)
  4. Proposed — 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 1000 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 1157 m); length — 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35 degrees.
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Description of a category 3A route to the summit of Irbistu via the left part of the North-West slope in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.

Peak Irbistu (Tymomu)
via the left part of the Northwest slope,
3A — snow-ice climb,
Korneev V.S.
Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class: snow-ice climb.
  2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley 1.3.
  3. Peak Irbistu (Tymomu), coordinates 49°45.536 N, 88°05.186 E,
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First ascent description of Kseniya Peak (3633 m) via North-Eastern Edge in the South-Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2B.

Passport

  1. Category — first ascent.
  2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge.
  3. Peak Ksenia via NE ridge. 3633 m?
  4. Assumed category 2B.
  5. Elevation gain 350 m, distance 640 m.
  6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
  7. Climbing time — 7 hours (from bergshrund to bergshrund).
  8. Night bivouac on the upper Sofiysky Glacier field.
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Category IIIb route to the summit of Ksenia (3634 m) in Altai, combined, first ascent in 2004.

Passport

  1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, KMGV section 1.3
  2. v. Ksenia, 3634 m, E. ridge
  3. Proposed 3B cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Route elevation gain — 295 m (by altimeter). Route length — 850 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 0 m. 6 cat. diff. — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 65°, entire route 24°.
  6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0. Used on the route: rock hooks — 6, chocks — 7.
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