Khrebet Inylchektau

Report on the first ascent via the buttress of the "Camel" rock pinnacle on the northern wall of Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya (6918 m) in the Central Tian Shan, grade 6B complexity.

Russian Championship 2009. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category Report Combined team of Novosibirsk region, Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya 6918 m, via the counterfort of the northwest wall (the "Camel" gendarme). Approximately 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Climbing Passport Region — Central Tien Shan, №7.5. Peak — Pobeda Zapadnaya (Vazha Pshavela) 6918 m, via the counterfort of the "Camel" gendarme on the north wall. Proposed category — 6B, first ascent. Route type — combined. Route characteristics:

Ascent to the Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via Peak Pobeda Central (6918 m) along the northern ridge, grade 5B.

PASSPORT Climbing category — high-altitude Climbing area — central Tian Shan, Kokshaltoo ridge Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via col 6918 Category of difficulty: 5B (6A) Route description: height difference — 3239 m, average steepness — 22°, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m, including: 6 category of difficulty — 50 m Number of pitons: rock, ice, chocks II, II, 0

Description of the team's ascent to Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the West Summit from Dykiy Pass, category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the team's tactics and actions.

Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge Peak Pobeda G. (7439 m) via West peak from per. Dikiy from l. Zvezdochka Complexity category — 5B Height difference — 3039 m, Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40 degrees. Pitons driven: Rock anchor pitons 12* 8 ice screws

Ascent to the Peak Pobeda West (6918 m) via the South Edge from the Diky pass, category 5A, made in 2005 by a team from Tatarstan.

Ascent Passport 1. Region — Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge, 7.5 2. Peak — Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya (6918 m) via S ridge from Dikiy pass 3. Route category — 5A 4. Route type — combined 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2600 m, route length — 4500 m, length of 5th category sections — 150 m, average slope — 45°;

Completing a Category III climb on the West Ridge of **Pobeda Peak** (6,918 m) in the Central **Tian Shan**, with participation in rescue operations.

Passport Altitude-technical class. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge. Pobeda (3) via 3 ridge (6918 m). 6A category of complexity, with participation in rescue works. Elevation gain: 2518 m, length — 4780 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (West ridge from Diky pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m). Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 7. | | Pitons driven: | | | | | :----------: | :------------: | :----------: | :-------: | :------: |

Description of the ascent to Pobeda Peak (6918 m) via the West Ridge, a Category 5 complexity route, undertaken by the Ural Highland Club team in August 2005.

Passport Technical climbing category Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range. C Pobeda (3) via the West Ridge (6918 m) a Category 5B, with participation in search operations Elevation gain — 2518 m, distance — 4780 m Average steepness of the main part of the route (West Ridge from Diky Pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m – 6700 m) Previously hammered pitons left in place — 8 rock 6, chocks 0, ice screws 5, snow stakes 2 Team's climbing hours: 39 hours, 6 days (including search operations)

Report on the ascent to Peak Pobeda West (6918 m) via the West Ridge, category 5B, in 1995.

Ascent Passport Ascent category — high-altitude Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge Ascent route — Pobeda Western peak (6918 m) via 3rd category route (Medzmariashvili route, 1961) Technical difficulty category — 5B, combined Route characteristics: height difference — 2720 m; wall section height difference — 980 m; total route length — 4580 m; wall section length — 1450 m;

Report on the first ascent of the north wall of Pobeda Peak (7435 m) by the USSR Armed Forces team in 1982.

XXXIII USSR Alpine Climbing Championship 1982 Class: High-altitude technical REPORT on the ascent of Peak POIBEDA (7439 m) via the northern wall (first ascent) by the team of the Armed Forces of the USSR Team leader — S.V. Smirnov Coach — E.T. Ilyinsky, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR 1982 Addresses and phone numbers: Team leader — Smirnov Vadim Anatolyevich Team coach — Ilyinsky Ervand Tikhonovich, 480012, Alma-Ata, Seifullina St., 537, apt. 4, ph. 67-79-52 Organization — 480051, Alma-Ata, 51, 12, SCA SAVO, Olenin I.L.

A 2009 climbing report on the ascent of Pobeda Peak via the North-Eastern Counterfort by the St. Petersburg FACL team, rated as a category 6A climb.

XVIII EAAC (CIS) Championship in Alpinism, High-Altitude Technical Class 2009 Description of the ascent to Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via the Northeast Counterfort, 6A category. The route was climbed by a team from FASIL St. Petersburg. Team captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval. Team coach: Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range, South Inylchek, section No. 7.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks. Name of the peak: Pobeda Main (7439), name of the route: via the Northeast Counterfort (V.Zhuravlev, 1990). Category of complexity: 6A. Nature of the route: combined. Height difference on the route: 2635 m (by altimeter).

Report on the ascent made by the Sever sports club team from Severodvinsk to Peak Pobeda via the north-eastern spur.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: high-altitude technical. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.