Passport
- Altitude-technical class.
- Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
- Pobeda (3) via 3 ridge (6918 m).
- 6A category of complexity, with participation in rescue works.
- Elevation gain: 2518 m, length — 4780 m.
Average steepness of the main part of the route (West ridge from Diky pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m). 6. Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 7.
| Pitons driven: | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rock | chocks | ice | snow | |
| 5 | 0 | 8 | 2 | |
| 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
- Team's working hours: 31 h, 4 days (including the day of rescue works) and processing day.
- Overnights: 1st — 5130 m, lying in a tent. 2nd — 6200 m, lying in a tent. 3rd — 5800 m, in a snow cave.
- Participants: Yermachek Yury Vladimirovich — MS, Pavlenko Dmitry Vladimirovich — CMS
- Coaches: Efimov Sergey Borisovich — HMS, Honored Coach of Russia, Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich — MS, Honored Coach of Russia
- Exit to the route: August 9, 1996. Summit: August 12, 1996. Return: August 13, 1996.
- Organization: Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee.
Photo 1. General photo of the summit.
- D. Medzmariashvili's route, climbed by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Shot from the moraine of South Inylchek glacier, H = 4000 m, Camera point — № 1.
Team's Tactical Actions
The tactical plan provided for the route to be climbed in 3 days, starting from the base camp at the confluence of Zvezdochka and South Inylchek glaciers. It was also planned to carry out preliminary processing with fixed ropes on the icefall at the exit to the route from Zvezdochka glacier during the acclimatization-scouting exit to Diky pass. On August 5, the team members were the first to pass this icefall in the season, fixing five ropes. On August 9, the team left the base camp to climb the route. The tight time schedule for the route to be climbed by a team of two in 3 days was adopted taking into account the high physical and technical preparation of the participants. According to the tactical plan, on August 10, the team ascended to the planned overnight location around 6200 m. During the evening radio communication with the base camp, a message was received that two Korean climbers were on 6700 m in a tent, one of whom could not move, likely paralyzed in the legs after hypothermia and injuries. On the next day at 8:00, the team members set out to search for, provide first aid to, and organize the descent of the injured climber, leaving their tent on 6200 m. After the arrival of the sports group (Mikhailov, Dyachenko, Yablokov) from 5800 m and the guides-rescuers of MAL "Khan-Tengri" who were airlifted to 5600 m, the team, having provided first aid, participated in the descent of the injured climber to the snow cave in the camp on 5800 m. After spending the night in this camp, the team continued the ascent the next day, reached the summit, and descended to their tent on 6200 m. The time schedule for the route was met after processing the icefall.
| pitons | ROUTE SCHEME in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | № participants | cat. diff. | length (m) | steep. (°) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| rock | ice | snow | |||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| – | – | – | +++ | 5 | 3 | 50 | 10 |
| – | 1 | 1 | 4 | 7 | 50 | 70 | |
| – | – | – | +++ | 3 | 4 | 100 | 10 |
| – | 6 | – | 2 | 8 | 150 | 70 | |
| – | – | – | 1/+ | 1 | 4 | 150 | 45 |
| pitons | ROUTE SCHEME in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | № participants | cat. diff. | length (m) | steep. (°) | ||
| :----: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
| rock | ice | snow | |||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| – | – | – |  | 10 | 2 | 200 | 10 |
| – | – | – |  | 9 | 5 | 100 | 45 |
| – | – | – |  | 8 | 2 | 500 | 10 |
| – | – | – |  | 7 | 5 | 800 | 20 |
| – | 1 | 1 |  | 6 | 7 | 50 | 70 |
| pitons | ROUTE SCHEME in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | № participants | cat. diff. | length (m) | steep. (°) | ||
| :----: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
| rock | ice | snow | |||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| Night 2 | |||||||
| – | – | – |  | 14 | 5 | 100 | 35 |
| 5 | – | – |  | 13 | 6 | 350 | 54 |
| – | – | – |  | 12 | 6 | 50 | 40 |
| – | – | – | after descent of the injured from 6000 m (section R18), 7 pitons, 9 h | 11 | 6 | 900 | 40 |
| pitons | ROUTE SCHEME in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | № participants | cat. diff. | length (m) | steep. (°) | ||
| :----: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
| rock | ice | snow | |||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| 2 | – | – | + | 18 | 8 | 50 | 60 |
| 3 | – | – |  | 17 | 7 | 300 | 50 |
| – | – | – |  | 16 | 6 | 150 | 25 |
| 2 | – | – |  | 15 | 7 | 250 | 50 |
| pitons | ROUTE SCHEME in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | № participants | cat. diff. | length (m) | steep. (°) | ||
| :----: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
| rock | ice | snow | |||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| 12 | 8 | 2 | Summit ^ 6918 m | Total 31 | |||
| – | – | – |  | 20 | 6 | 200 | 20 |
| – | – | – |  | 19 | 5 | 280 | 30 |
Description of the route by sections
Section R0–R1. Firn slope. Section R1–R2. Icefall. A series of three ice walls about 50 m each. Fixed ropes during route processing. Section R2–R3. Traverse under seracs to the right. Section R3–R4. Snow-ice wall. Ropes fixed. Section R4–R5. Snow slope. Section R5–R6. Snow-ice wall. Ropes fixed. Section R6–R7. Heavily snow-covered ice slope with closed crevasses. Section R7–R8. Snow plateau. Section R8–R9. Steep snow slope leading to Diky pass. Section R9–R10. Gentle snow ridge leading to the start of the West ridge, along which the main part of the route goes. Section R10–R11. Wide snow ridge with three steep rises. At the end of the section (5800 m) traditional overnight stay in snow caves. Section R11–R12. Snow section leading to the start of the rocky part of the West ridge of the summit. Section R12–R13. Snow-covered wide rocky ridge. Pitons used in some areas. Section R13–R14. Snow-ice ridge. Section R14–R15. Snow-covered wide rocky ridge. Pitons used in some areas. Section R15–R16. Traverse along a gentle rocky ridge to the right in the direction of a large couloir. Section R16–R17. Steepness of the ridge increases again. Some areas have remaining loops and sections of fixed ropes. Sections R17–R18. The steepest rocky section of the ridge. At the end of the section, there are places for overnight stays. Section R18–R19. Wide snow-ice ridge with rare rocky outcrops. Section R19–R20. Summit snow-ice dome.
