1. Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0

1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
   • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
   • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
   • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
5. PITS SET:
   • ROCK PITS — 173
   • ICE PITS — 51

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |

497

of 30.09.80, 5B cat., semi-circular traverse.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technically challenging
2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE: Pamir, Peter I Ridge
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Unnamed, 5730 m, North-East wall, counterfort
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6B cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference: 2130 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Peter I ridge
3. Summit: peak Agasis, 5730 m, counterfort of the north-eastern wall
4. Complexity category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 2200 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 1700 m
   • average steepness: 75°

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to Peak Borodino from Fortambek Glacier

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kirova, 6371 m, along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference 6371–4200 = 2171 m, average steepness — 50°, length of sections: R2 — none, R3 — 800 m, R4 — 1000 m, R5 — 700 m, R6 — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay: rock — 44

2nd Ascent

Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical;
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route — Traverse of p. Kirova (6372 m) — p. Khokhlova (6701 m) — p. Kommunizma (7495 m) with ascent from Walter Glacier via the East Ridge;
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3400 m, length of sections of 1st difficulty category – 1500 m, 2nd difficulty category – 1900 m, 3rd difficulty category – 6680 m, 4th difficulty category – 2200 m, 5th difficulty category – 120 m, average steepness — 30°;
6. Pitons hammered: for creating ITO — none; for belaying — of which rock — 24, ice — 28, bolt — none;
7. Number of travel hours — 38;
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 3 nights, lying down;
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification: