Peter I Range
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateThe first ascent of Peak Kirova (6371 m) via the west wall in 1970 by the team from the Donetsk regional council of the "Avangard" sports society.
USSR Climbing Federation
USSR Climbing Championship, 1970
Kirova Peak via the west face (6371 m)
Protocol No. 318 dated October 3, 1970. Category 5B, first ascent.
DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF "AVANGARD" SPORTS ORGANIZATION
Donetsk, 1970
Route Description: ц. кф. 3 стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak Kirova via the central counterfort of the West wall, complexity category 6B, made by a group of climbers in 1972.
Peak Kirova (6372 m)
Group Composition:
| Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Sport Rank | Year of Birth | Party Membership | Nationality | Sport Experience and Instructor Rank |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KONKOV Mikhail Petrovich | МСМК | 1937 | чл. КПСС | русск. | since 1955 ст. инструктор |
| GUSEV Viktor Sergeevich | КМС | 1940 | б/п | русск. | since 1964 мл. инструктор |
| CHERNOBELSKY Iosif Vladimirovich | КМС | 1944 | б/п | еврей | since 1961 мл. инструктор |
| CHERNOBELSKAYA Valentina Alexandrovna | КМС | 1943 | б/п | русск. | since 1963 мл. инструктор |
| Nosov Anatoly Pavlovich | КМС | 1936 | б/п | русск. | since 1956 звания нет |
| The route to Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the central counterfort of the Western wall, ascended by the group of the Bashkir expedition, consists of characteristic sections that can be classified as follows: |
Route Description: С склону
SSummitMateSolo ascent by Philom ThornHill of a difficult route to the summit with numerous technical difficulties and overcoming challenging ice and snow sections.
TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:
- Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
- I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.
Route Description: С склону
SSummitMateA report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma, describing harsh weather conditions and technical difficulties during the descent.
The Summit!
Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:
- №3
- №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
- strong wind,
- poor visibility.
Route Description: С гребню, траверс
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Novosibirsk Region team to Peak Kommunizma via Peak Kirova in 1973.
Комитет по физической культуре и спорту при Новосибирском облисполкоме
4.8.12
Отчёт
о восхождении сборной команды Новосибирской области на пик Коммунизма через пик Кирова с подъёмом на пик Кирова по северному гребню, совершённого в зачёт чемпионата СССР 1973 года Класс высотных восхождений Новосибирск –1973–
1. Краткое географическое описание и спортивная характеристика объекта восхождения
Пик Коммунизма (7495 m) — высочайшая вершина Советского Союза, расположен на северо-западном Памире, на пересечении хребтов Академии Наук и Петра Первого. Он открыт топографом И. Г. Дорофеевым в 1928 г. [^1]. Первовосхождение на пик Коммунизма совершено в 1933 году выдающимся советским альпинистом Евгением Абалаковым. На склонах пика Коммунизма берут начало многочисленные ледники, относящиеся к трём автономным бассейнам, которые разделены хребтами Академии Наук и Петра Первого — это бассейны ледников Бивачный, Фортамбек и Беляева. Соответственно, можно выделить три района, из которых совершаются восхождения на пик Коммунизма:
Route Description: С гребню, траверс
SSummitMateAscent of the team of the Novosibirsk Regional Sports Committee to Peak Kommunizma via Peak Kirova at the USSR Championship in mountaineering in 1973.
Passport
- Climbing category — high-altitude.
- Climbing area — Fortambek glacier.
- Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via Peak Kirov (6371 m) with ascent to Peak Kirov via the north ridge.
- Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 2495 m. Average steepness — about 15°. Length of difficult sections — 1020 m.
- Number of pitons used: rock — 64
ice — 47
Route Description: с л. Вальтера или Фортамбек через БПП
SSummitMate### Ascent to Peak Kuibyshev via the Pamir Firn Plateau in 1967 Description of the route and technical characteristics of the path.
| Date | Average Steepness | Length along Highland Trails | Characteristic of the Section and Conditions of its Passage | Time | Pitons Driven | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| by terrain characteristics | by technical difficulty | by belay method | rock | |||
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| August 10, 1967 | 400 m | Moraine, glacier | Simultaneous movement | 6:30 | 1:00 | |
| Talus, destroyed rocks, snow | Simultaneous movement | 7:40 | 2:30 | |||
| 30–35° | 1×40 m | ice | piton belay | 10:35 | ||
| — | 20 m | Destroyed rocks | simple | — | ||
| — | 40 m | Ice slope | Medium difficulty | piton belay |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak Kuibyshev (6198 m) via the Southwest Face, made by the SAVO team in 1977, with a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent category: high-altitude technical (up to 6500 m) 2. Ascent area: North-Western, Pamir, l. Garmo 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: South-West wall of p. Kuibyshev, 6198 m 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, average steepness — 68.5°, length of complex section — 485 m 5. Pitons driven: rock — 178, ice — 16, bolt — — 6. Number of travel hours — 53 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: four, all sitting 8. Team name: Central Asian Military District (CAMD) 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their sports qualification:
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningrad via the South-West face from the Lipsky glacier, 6th difficulty category, made as part of the 1981 USSR Alpine Championship.
USSR Alpine Climbing Championship
High-altitude technical class.
Report
on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningradskaya Western (6470) via the Southwest wall from Lipsky Glacier, approximately category 6 difficulty.
Moscow
1981
Photo of the wall
Photo of the route profile.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Leningrad Peak (6470 m) in the Central Pamir via the Southwest Face from the Lipsky Glacier.
I. Climbing category 2. Climbing region 3. Peak, its height, climbing route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. average steepness 6. Number of pitons driven and placement elements used: rock, ice,