I. Climbing category — high-altitude 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Peter I Ridge 3. Peak — Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the NE wall from Fortambek Glacier 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2835 m, section lengths: III cat. diff. — 160 m, IV cat. diff. — 700 m, V–VI cat. diff. — 3515 m, including wall sections (excluding the pre-summit ridge) — 2615 m, average steepness — 75° (wall section) 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors: rock — 175, 15; ice — 101, 24; bolt — 3, 3 7. Total climbing hours — 143 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: twelve bivouacs, including one sitting and four semi-sitting due to limited platform sizes.

Ascent in the USSR Championship in alpinism

1979

1. Class of ascent - high-altitude
2. Region of ascent - Pamir
3. Route of ascent - Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the southeast wall.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: a) height difference - 2600 m. b) average steepness of the route - 75°. c) length of the most difficult sections vertically - 1500 m.
5. Number of pitons used - rock 152 (including 40 channels and placements), ice - 46, and bolted - 5.

28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7

Passport

First ascent made in 1975

1. Climbing category — traverse
2. Climbing area — North-West Pamir
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76

Report

on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.

Route Characteristics

Peaks included in the traverse:

Protocol No. 398, January 15, 1975 Report On the ascent to the summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" (5079 m) (approximately category 3B) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club. The summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern spurs of the Peter the First ridge. Fig. I, ascent scheme. From a sporting perspective, the summit may be of interest for initial acclimatization climbs with the aim of gradual, gentle adaptation to high altitude. Characteristic features of this route, as well as the entire region:

• Unstable rock formations

Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge

First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G.

Fortambek Glacier Basin

The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that:

• There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend;
• There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club

Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent)

Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants:

• I.V. Grebenshchikov
• V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.

Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva