Ascent Passport

Ascent class: high-altitude technical
Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
Expected difficulty category: 6B
Route characteristics:

total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m)

Pitons driven:
- for belaying:
  - rock and chock stones — 109
  - ice screws — 0
  - bolt pitons — 0
- for anchors, etc.:
  - bolt pitons — 54
Total travel time: 29 h 40 min
Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 2 lying down safe
Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their sports qualification:
1. Salikov Alexander Mikhailovich — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
2. Garshin Vladimir Stepanovich — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
3. Valyaev Evgeny Nikolaevich — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
4. Kompaneets Igor Vasilyevich — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
5. Samsonov Vladimir Anatolyevich — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
6. Filatov Sergey Alekseevich — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
Date of departure on the route: August 11, 1981 and return from the route: August 15, 1981
Team coach: Master of Sports of the USSR Shevchenko Nikolai Alekseevich, 630003, Novosibirsk-93, SKA-18.

Ascent Route

Date and section number	Slope in degrees	Length in m	Terrain characteristics	Difficulty	Route condition	Type of belay	Weather conditions	Rock and chock stones	Ice screws	Bolt pitons
11.08.81
0	50	250	slope	2	firm snow	ice axe	clear	—	—	—
1	55	70	—	4	ice	pitons	«	4	—	—
2	65	15	crevice	5	ice	«	«	1	—	—
3	80	20	inner corner	6	rocks in ice	«	«	7	—	2
4	75	55	wall	6	«	«	«	6	—	—
5	55	80	slope	4	firm snow	ice axe	«	7	—	—
6	80	45	rocks	6	in ice	pitons	«	2	—	4
7	50	60	forehead	4	ice	«	cloudy	—	—	—
8	60	10	inner corner	5	rocks with ice	«	«	2	—	—
9	55	220	outer corner, ridge	4	—	—	overcast, wind	4	—	—
10	70	70	outer corner	5	«	«	«	5	—	—
11	85	10	wall	6	«	«	«	5	—	1
12.08.81
12	65	180	ridge with walls	4	rocks with snow and ice	—	clear	6	—	—
13	70	140	—"—	5	«	«	cloudy, wind	9	—	—
14	80	40	inner corner	6	«	«	«	6	—	3
15	75	70	outer corner	5	«	«	«	7	—	3
13.08.81
16	72	120	ridge	5	«	«	«	9	—	—
17	60	160	—"—	4	firm snow, ice	«	«	11	—	—
18	48	240	slope	4	ice	«	«	6	—	8
19	65	75	ice	5	«	«	«	—	—	—
20	75	80	wall	5	broken rocks with ice	«	«	7	—	2
21	60	90	wall	5	ice	«	«	—	—	—
22	65	160	ridge	4	rocks with snow	«	«	8	—	—
23	60	110	slope	4	ice	«	overcast, graupel, wind	7	—	—
24	40	140	—"—	3	firm snow	«	«	6	—	1
25	25	250	—"—	1	«	ice axe	«	—	—	—
26	60	60	ridge	2	rocks with snow	ice axe, outcrops	«	—	—	—

Note: Section 16–17 was processed on August 12, 1981.