2nd Ascent
Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980
Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering.
Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N.
Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays.
The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.
The high ascent rate is attributed to the good acclimatization obtained by the participants during the ascent to p. E. Korzhenevskaya.
There are no remarks for the group.
Vorobiev A.N.: The ascent went normally, I'm satisfied with the group, I believe the route can be classified as 5A category of difficulty.
Golovin A.V.: Everything is in order, the participants felt well, the leadership was unobtrusive, I believe the route can be classified as 5A category of difficulty.
Terekhov A.N.: The weather was favorable for the ascent, I'm satisfied with the group and the leadership. I believe the route can be rated as 5A category of difficulty.
Troschinenko A.L.: The group performed well, I propose to certify the ascent to the participants and the leadership to the leader.
Secretary - Terekhov A.N.
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in m | Character of relief | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Bolts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 27, 1980 departure — 6:00, stop — 10:30 | R0–R1 | 30° | 2400 m | rocky counterfort | 2B | Destroyed, rockfalls | clear | 6 | - | - |
| departure — 12:00, overnight stop — 20:00 1). | R1–R2 | 30° | 2000 m | snow-ice counterfort | 2B | snow on ice | clear | - | 4 | - |
| July 28, 1980 departure — 7:00 | R2–R3 | 20° | 500 m | rocky ridge | 3A | Destroyed | clear | 2, ledges | - | - |
| stop — 12:00 2). | R3–R4 | 30° with climbs up to 70° | 1000 m | snow-ice ridge | 4A | snow on ice, местами открытый лед | clear | - | 6я | - |
Notes: 1). Total for the first day 12 hours 30 minutes of walking time. Overnight stay on snow, lying down. 2). On the second day, the ascent took 5 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the base camp — 8 walking hours.
