Ascent

to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”

Central Pamir, 1972

Map of the area

From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much. The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).

Brief characteristics of the area

The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir
3. Climbing route — p. Rossii (6878 m) via the southeastern wall
4. Climbing characteristics: altitude difference — 2200 m average steepness — 62° length of complex sections — 1400 m
5. Pitons used: rock pitons — 104

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — High-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Akademii Nauk Ridge, Central Pamir
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Rossiya 6852 m via the Bastion on the SE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   1. Height difference — 2050 m, Bastion height difference — 1150 m, "lap" — 800 m
   2. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1460 m
   3. Average steepness of the "lap" — 55°, average steepness of the Bastion — 75–80°, average steepness of the route — 70°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 236, ice — 7, "chocks" — 40; for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO) — 10

Burevestnik Central Sports Council Alpine Championship, high-altitude class CENTRAL PAMIR. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES RANGE. PIK ROSSIA (6852 m). Via the bastion of the south-eastern wall. Team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society. Second ascent of the route. Irkutsk, 1980.

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, starting from the Bivachny Glacier

Central Pamir

PIK ROSSII

6878 m

ASCENT REPORT

of the ascent by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee along the center of the Western wall Team leader, coach Efimov S.B. MS "Burevestnik". Team members:

• Samoylin M.A. MS "Burevestnik"
• Lebedikhin A.V. MS "Burevestnik"
• Vinogradsky E.M. MS "Burevestnik"

Ascent to Peak Sandal (6150 m)

via the northern edge from the Maly Tanymas valley (Central Pamir, Mazarskiye Alps) Expedition of the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society Climb leader: Stecenko N.A.

Brief geographical, geological and climatic characteristics of the Mazarskiye Alps region

Communication routes

The Mazarskiye Alps are a group of peaks at the northern end of the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. To the east and north, the Mazarskiye Alps are bounded by the valleys of the Sel-Dara and Muk-Su rivers, respectively, and to the south by the glacier and the river of the same name, Maly Tanymas, which flows into the Sel-Dara river, and the tongue of the Fedchenko Glacier. To the west, the Mazarskiye Alps are connected through a significant depression in the ridge with the peaks of the Academy of Sciences Range, the upper reaches of the Maly Tanymas and Ayu-Dzhilga glaciers.

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Description

Ascent route to Sandal Peak (6150 m) via the NE ridge from Maly Tanymas Glacier (first ascent) Group composition:

1. Volynets G.I. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports.
2. Mikhailov A.A. — participant, 1st category.
3. Efimov S.D. — participant, 1st category.
4. Yakovlev G.S. — participant, 1st category.

Route timeline

The route was completed from August 3 to 8, 1967, in 45 hours of climbing time by a sports group from the Sverdlovsk Pamir Expedition, starting from the base camp at 3450 m on Maly Tanymas Glacier.

Upper Reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier

"Description of the First Ascent to Peak Sент-Экзюпери (6063 m), Category 4B difficulty via the North Ridge". Protocol No. 427 dated January 18, 1977. Classify as Category 4A difficulty. First ascent credited to the group. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 27, 1976.

Group Composition

Leader — K.N. Veselov — Candidate Master of Sports Members:

• A.V. Abramov — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87

Peak Sodruzhestvo

To the Classification Commission of the Presidium of the USSR Alpine Federation

Description of the ascent route to the summit 5640 m

The 5640 m summit is located in the central part of the Pamir in the Academy of Sciences Range between Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Garmo (6615 m). The 5640 m summit stands out distinctly on the ridge, having a beautiful outline. A small glacier flows down from the slopes of the 5640 m summit, being a right tributary (orographically) of the Vavilov Glacier. The first ascent to the 5640 m summit was made by participants of the British-Soviet expedition consisting of: – 1. Hunt J. — group leader – 2. Law J. — member – 3. Jones R. — member