Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the southern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   1. height difference — 2800 m
   2. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1200 m
   3. average steepness of the lower part — 55° average steepness of the wall section — 85°

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.

Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass. The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour). We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

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Traverse of Western Pamir

Passport

Class of traverses Western Pamir Traverse of peaks 6280–6600–6840–6701–7495 Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent Length 14480 m, max. elevation difference — 2895 m Pitons hammered:

• rock — 42
• ice — 144

Ascent Description of the Unnamed Peak "Patriot Peak" 6350 m

The unnamed peak with an elevation of 6350 m above sea level, conditionally named "Patriot Peak", is located in the southern spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, branching off from the Molotov Glacier, at the fork of the Garmo and Vavilov Glaciers, and separates the basins of the Belyaev and Vavilov Glaciers. See the sketch, figure 1. The ascent to the unnamed peak 6350 m, named "Patriot Peak", was made by the Lokomotiv Sports Society team via the southwest ridge. The starting point of the ascent is the "Sarmot" camp on the moraine, at the fork of the Vavilov and Garmo Glaciers. The camp was named due to the large number of marmots inhabiting the surrounding area. The camp's elevation is 4000 m above sea level. From the Sarmot camp, the ascent goes along the moraines on the right orographic side of the 1st northern tributary of the Vavilov Glacier. At an elevation of 4500 m in the cirque of this tributary, the first camp is set up. On the second day of the ascent, it is necessary to: – cross the glacier; – ascend to the shoulder of the southwest ridge. The path goes through extremely steep firn slopes, intersected by numerous crevasses. It is necessary to wear crampons and move in teams. The overall slope steepness is 35–40°, with a height gain of about 400 m. The direct ascent to the shoulder is made via a steep firn-ice ridge. It is necessary to overcome two steep ice sections: – the first — 80 m, steepness 60°;

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THIS ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GROUP WHO DIED ON PIK PATRIOT IN 1953 Protocol No. 201 dated November 2, 1962 5B+1

Description of the Ascent to Pik Patriot

Ascent to Pik Patriot via the western ridge (Pamir, Garmo Glacier), July 1962. Group of the joint Soviet-British expedition to Pamir. July 26, 1962. Pik Patriot is located in the Academy of Sciences Range (Fig. 1). The first ascent to Pik Patriot (then known as Peak 6350 m) was made by a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" society led by B. Garf in 1950 via the southwest ridge, categorized as 5B. Garf, with the aim of scouting approaches to Pik Kommunizma, ascended to the upper cirque below Pik Patriot (photo 2) to traverse the spur extending from the Academy of Sciences Range (the western ridge of Pik Patriot). Garf wrote about the ascent options to Pik Patriot: "It was not possible to traverse the spur: it rose as a 300-meter wall (see photo 3)."

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

CS DSO "Burevestnik" Championship in Alpinism 1969, High-Altitude Climbing Class

Peak Pravda (6500 m) via the Western Counterfort (approx. 5B cat. diff.)

TEAM OF THE LOCAL COMMITTEE OF THE CHELYABINSK POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. Chelyabinsk, 1969 Peak Pravda (6400 m) is located in the center of the northwestern Pamir in the Akademiya Nauk Range, on the territory of the Tajik SSR. This region is the most elevated part of the Pamir. Here, particularly favorable conditions are created for the formation and accumulation of ice, which in the form of glaciers slides down the slopes of the ridges and peaks, filling the valleys (Fedchenko, Fortambek, Garmo, etc.). The snow line in this area is approximately at an altitude of 4000–4500 m. The climate in the region is sharply continental with sharp temperature fluctuations from winter to summer, from day to night. The high altitude and considerable technical complexity make Peak Pravda an excellent mountain in alpinist terms, and the ascent via the most difficult route—the western counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier—represents significant sporting interest. In 1968, a group of climbers ascended this route:

Ascent Passport

2. Ascent area — П3. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Pik Pravda, 6400 m, via the non-central counterfort of the western wall along the western ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5Б
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 5050 — 6400 (1350 m), average steepness — 60°, length of sections: Iк.тр. — 130 m, Пк.тр. — 80 m, Пк.тр. — 160 m, IVк.тр. — 470 m, Vк.тр. — 720 m, VIк.тр. — 50 m
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 79, ice — 10, bolt — none
7. Number of walking hours to the summit — 31 hours

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb.
2. North-West Pamir, Bivachny Glacier.
3. Pik Rossia, 6878 m, center of the SE wall.
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain - 2052 m, length - 2332 m. Length of sections 5-6B - 1615 m. Average steepness of main sections: 47° snow-ice slope (4800-5600 m), 70° wall (5600-6750 m), 30° pre-summit ridge (6750-6852 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 219 bolts - chocks 29 ice 82