Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
3. Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
4. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK FIKKER (6718 m) BY THE SPORTS CLUB AN SSSR TEAM Pamir, July–August 1960 Map of the expedition area: 1 — Base camp, 2 — First cave, 3 — Second cave.

Area of Operation

Pik Fikker (see Figs. 1, 3) with a height of 6718 m is located approximately in the middle of the mountains of the southern Fedchenko group, bordering the right (orographic) bank of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko glacier (see photo scheme). To the north and south from Pik Fikker, the main ridges extend to other peaks of the southern Fedchenko group. The eastern slopes of Pik Fikker descend directly onto the Vitskovsky glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko glacier significantly to the north, and the western slopes feed a small (unnamed) glacier, also a tributary of the Fedchenko glacier. Below, we will refer to it as the Fikker glacier.

4.12 44851 Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the USSR Council of Ministers

Climbing Department

![img-1.jpeg]({"width":565,"height":182,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/hIutENbE3ZoiLdcQQ3v6FEeBT8Bipn rXE/img-1.jpeg","id":64770581})

Ascent to the summit of Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" (Helpers)

Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" is located in the southwestern spur of the western ridge of Peak Ficker.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route went along the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obval glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends, and there is a fairly convenient exit onto the ice. The group crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obval glaciers and reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which turns sharply northeast at this point (1 hour). A trail along the moraine (along the stream) leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, the group descended from the moraine of the glacier and moved towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographic) branch of the Abdukagor glacier, divided by a rocky ridge into two parts (30–40 minutes). The icefall was traversed somewhat to the right in the lower part and somewhat to the left in the upper part (in the direction of travel) (1 hour). Above the icefall, three not very steep ascents were traversed, alternating with more gentle sections.

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length, category 6B difficulty, average steepness 6. Pitons driven: rock, ice 7. Number of travel hours

Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — High-altitude 2. Ascent Region — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the center of the NNW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — sixth 5. Route characteristics — height difference: wall — 140 m, route — 1674 m; average wall steepness — 63°; section lengths:

• III — 1200 m,
• IV — 320 m,

REPORT

of the Uzbekistan Sports Committee team on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the NNW wall in the high-altitude class program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1979 Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m, the sixth highest peak in the USSR, is located in the Central Pamir in the Yazgulem Range. The peak was first conquered on August 17, 1954, by a team led by A. Ugarov from the east. In the sixties, seven more routes were laid to the peak, one of which was along the left counterfort of the north wall, a kilometer-long sheer wall towering above the Fedchenko Glacier cirque. As early as 1968, photographs of this wall appeared in the team's archives, and we began to study them, examining the future object. In mid-July of this year, the team began transporting supplies to the area of operation. Equipment and provisions were dropped under the wall and at the Abdukagor Pass. The team was deployed, and a base camp was established on the Abdukagor Glacier at an altitude of about 3900 m. Upon distribution of the routes, our team was assigned the central part of the wall. A thorough study of the intended route was conducted, a clear, step-by-step tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up, and several descent options were developed, finalizing the team's composition. The wall is relatively rockfall-prone, and there are practically no places for overnight stays. To pass it mobilly, it was decided to go with one tent for five people. The team consisted of: Putintsev A.V. – captain Gromov L.V. – deputy captain

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range
3. Pik Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via NW wall (Cherevko route), 2nd ascent
4. Category 6B
5. Route characteristics: | | | | | :---------------- | :----------------------------------------- | :-------------- | | elevation gain | | 1530 m | | length | | 3800 m |

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ascent — high-altitude. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the south-west wall through the triangle. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6. 5. Characteristics of the route: altitude difference length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating average steepness of the wall 6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons — 357, ice screws — baling hooks —