PASSPORT

1. Altitude class.
2. Pamir, Walter Glacier.
3. Peak K. Tsetkin via West face — Peak Kommunizma.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Elevation difference to Peak Kommunizma — 2895 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2080 m. Distance to Peak Kommunizma — 9140 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2642 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 3425 m, of which 6B category — 270 m. Average steepness of the third wall of Peak K. Tsetkin — 55°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :-------- |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range (4.1)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak K. Zetkin, 6680 m, West face.
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2280 m, average steepness — 73°, length of complex sections — 834 m.
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock — 249, ice — 12.
7. Number of travel hours — 77.
8. Number of nights — 13.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants:

Team Composition

1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.

PEAK CHETYREKH 6299

I. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Climbing Object

The object of our ascent — Peak Chetyrekh (6299 m) — is located in the northwestern Pamir, in the western branch of the Akademiya Nauk Range. The node dividing the range into western and eastern branches is the massif of Peak Ahmadi Donisha (6666 m), which is connected by saddles to both the eastern branch, ending with the peaks Muzzhilga, Sandal, and Shilbe (Mazarskie Alpy), and to its western branch, which begins with Peak Chetyrekh and ends with the grandiose peak of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi. The southern slopes of Peak Chetyrekh drop down to the Moskvina Glacier, in the Fortambek valley, while the northern slopes descend into the Aiu-dzhilga valley, from where the ascent was made. The summit of Peak Chetyrekh had already been reached from the south via the simplest route, but the path from the north, from Aiu-dzhilga, remained untrodden. The reconnaissance showed that the virtually only path to the summit from the Aiu-dzhilga valley is an ascent to the saddle between Peak Ahmadi Donisha and Peak Chetyrekh, followed by an ascent along the ridge to the summit.

II. Brief Description of Climbing Conditions in the Area

a) Terrain Features

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 6231 m via the south-west edge from the Ayudzhilga valley on the Central Pamir, made by alpinists from Leningrad's “SPARTAK” on July 27–30, 1966. The summit was named: “Peak YAKIR”

Geography of the area and characteristics of the peaks

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
8. Team:

Комитет по физической культуре и спорту при Новосибирском облисполкоме

4.8.12

Отчёт

о восхождении сборной команды Новосибирской области на пик Коммунизма через пик Кирова с подъёмом на пик Кирова по северному гребню, совершённого в зачёт чемпионата СССР 1973 года Класс высотных восхождений Новосибирск –1973–

1. Краткое географическое описание и спортивная характеристика объекта восхождения

Пик Коммунизма (7495 m) — высочайшая вершина Советского Союза, расположен на северо-западном Памире, на пересечении хребтов Академии Наук и Петра Первого. Он открыт топографом И. Г. Дорофеевым в 1928 г. [^1]. Первовосхождение на пик Коммунизма совершено в 1933 году выдающимся советским альпинистом Евгением Абалаковым. На склонах пика Коммунизма берут начало многочисленные ледники, относящиеся к трём автономным бассейнам, которые разделены хребтами Академии Наук и Петра Первого — это бассейны ледников Бивачный, Фортамбек и Беляева. Соответственно, можно выделить три района, из которых совершаются восхождения на пик Коммунизма:

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Fortambek glacier.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via Peak Kirov (6371 m) with ascent to Peak Kirov via the north ridge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 2495 m. Average steepness — about 15°. Length of difficult sections — 1020 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 64
   ice — 47

Ascent Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge (5420 m)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m
   • average steepness — 35–40°
   • length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock — 2

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — D.Z. Pvivr, Ruban Range.
3. Ascent route — First ascent of Pik Kosmonavtov–5420 m, via the north ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 800 m (1,000 m from the bivouac); average steepness — 45–50°; length of difficult sections — 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 33;