Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Arga area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Heroes of the Kursk Battle (approximately) 4110 m via NW edge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 610 m length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 300 m with an average steepness of 62° average steepness 41°

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1330 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
   • average steepness — 72°.

Dukdon — Central Peak, category 5B difficulty

Route Map

Description of the Ascent to Dukdon Peak, category 5B difficulty

The Dukdon peak, with an elevation of 5200 m, is located in the Fann Mountains of the Pamiro-Alay region. The Fann Mountains are characterized by fault-block structures without pronounced foldings. The main Zeravshan ridge lies aside. The Dukdon massif stretches approximately 15 km in a latitudinal direction and includes several peaks above 5000 m. The group targeted the central peak from which a southern spur branches off, transitioning into a parallel ridge. The approach to Dukdon begins from the village of Dji-Djik, where the motorable road ends. The route continues:

1. Along the Iskander-Darya River (3 hours).
2. Around Iskander-Kul Lake (1 hour).

Central Council “Zenit”

Traverse of Dukdon Massif (first ascent)

N 418, October 13, 1970 5B

Team Captain Moiseev Yu. Team Coach Baskin S.

2. Simonik A. G.
3. Druy M. G.
4. Pisarev K. L.
5. Solodkov Yu. K.
6. Kopenningene L.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - 5,3 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route

• Jonatar, 4300 m, via SW ridge

4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 250 m, average slope 55° on ascent, section lengths - I 100 m, II 150 m, III 240 m, IV 20 m, VI m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay points rock - 34 ice - -

Ascent Passport

1. Sports organization — MGS DSO "Spartak".
2. Ascent category — technical.
3. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
4. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Jinatar 4400 m, north-eastern ridge.
5. Ascent description: a) height difference 700 m. (III cat. diff. — 490 m, IV cat. diff. — 270 m, V cat. diff. — 260 m); b) average steepness 65°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 90, ice —, bolted —; for creating I.T.O. — 5.
7. Total climbing time: 11 hours.

Route Description

Ascent to peak KALTSIT - 2A category of difficulty via the northwest ridge. From the base camp, cross the meadow with a rain gauge to the BIOB River. Cross the river and ascend on the right side of the couloir towards peak KALTSIT to a meadow with a snow-measuring marker. The beginning of the couloir is approximately 1 km from the confluence of the ARG and BIOB rivers. The upper part of the couloir leads to a narrow snow couloir in a small ridge adjacent to peak Kaltsit (Fig. 1). The slope of the snow in the lower part of the couloir is 20°, and in the upper part, it is 30°–45°. The length of the entire couloir is about 100 m. The passage through the couloir is done either on snow with mandatory piton belay on rocks or, in unfavorable snow conditions (hard snow, ice, little snow), on the left rocks with piton belay or via perms. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The time it takes to reach the base of the couloir from the base camp is about 2 hours. The mentioned couloir leads to a saddle. Then, move traversely left and upwards to a pyramidal snow patch with a characteristic rocky outcrop in the middle (Fig. 2). The slope of the snow patch in the lower part is 10°. Further, the slope increases to 30° (near the rocky outcrop). It is convenient to pass the snow patch along small rocky outcrops stretched in the direction of movement. Bypassing the rocky outcrop on the left, ascend to the upper part of the snow patch. Then, traverse right and upwards (2–3 ropes) on rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay or via ledges - outcrops) to the saddle (Fig. 2). The saddle is located to the left of a three-pronged rocky gendarme. From the saddle, traverse, bypassing the gendarme on the right, and move along the ridge to the summit. The exit to the summit is via a simple internal angle, broken from massive stone slabs. Throughout the path along the ridge, belay is done via outcrops.

5.36.

30a Kidzal, 3A cat. diff., Southwest Ridge, A. Petrov, 1979 38.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Kidzal, 4291 m, via Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route description: Elevation gain 500 m, sections of 5th category difficulty 35 m, average steepness?
6. Pitons driven: rock, for belay: 5.
7. Duration: 7 hours from the bivouac under Anzak Pass.