Peak Chaplygina, 4500 m

From the overnight spot near the moraine under Chimtarga we enter the glacier under the ridge between Peak Chaplygina and Peak SO AN — 1 hour. Ascent to the ridge along the edge of the snowfield and talus (40 minutes) without a rope. On the ridge, beware of falling. Further, the path goes along the ridge with a detour around several gendarmes via ledges on the right. Insurance is alternating, through выступы (ledges or rock projections). The ridge leads to a wall with a steepness of 60–70°. Along a narrow stone ledge to the right of the ridge, two ropes with alternating insurance (2 pitons) lead to the beginning of a wide, steep chimney. Here the entire group can be accommodated. The 1st control cairn is also located here. Further, up the steep, not very pronounced chimney, sometimes interrupted by sheer 3–4 m walls, 6 ropes. Insurance is via pitons. Caution! Falling rocks! Entrance under an arch, which is bypassed on the right. Up, half a rope — a large spacious balcony with stone railings, from which there is a beautiful view of Chimtarga. On the balcony, the 2nd control cairn is set up. The path from the ridge to the 2nd control cairn takes 4 hours 30 minutes. From the balcony, 40 m of very difficult maneuvering. First, along an existing crevice, then exit to a sharp crest leading to a dangerous, talus-filled couloir. Along the couloir — to an inclined slab, and exit, bypassing the slab, to a talus ledge under an overhanging rock. These 40 m are traversed in 1.5–2 hours. Along the ledges, we traverse left and enter a steep rock gully with smoothed stones — 30 m, and further along a not difficult, destroyed ridge — exit to the summit (1 hour). Further along the ridge — the second summit. On both summits — cairns. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire path to the summit from the overnight spot — 9–10 hours. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• 2 ropes, 40 m each
• 40 m of accessory cord (repschnur)

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina

PASSPORT

of the ascent made in the 1973 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Surkhob Valley.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and elevations — via the center of the northeast face of Chyorny Peak (5010 m).
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1450–1500 m, average steepness — 87–88°, length of complex sections — 1094 m.
5. Number of anchors installed:
   • rock anchors — 288,
   • 9 ice anchors in rock,
   • 8 wooden wedges;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Chimtarga, 5498 m, via the Eastern Counterfort
4. Expected difficulty category: 4B category, combined
5. Route description:
   • Ridge height difference (by altimeter) – 1300 m
   • On the ridge, there are 5 walls with a total height difference (10 m, 40 m, 25 m, 30 m, 40 m) – 145 m and an average steepness of 70°
   • Length of sections:
     • 5 km — 10 m

Route Description

The description is given by sections. July 25 - departure from the assault camp located at the western foot of Chimtarga peak, at an altitude of about 3800 m. At 6:30, we start ascending along the scree to the terraces under the southwestern wall of Chimtarga. From below, this place resembles a captain's bridge. From there, we traverse left along the snow and scree to the "ram's foreheads", to the beginning of the route. The entire path to the start of the route takes 2 hours. The beginning of the route is clearly distinguished against the sky by a small rib adjacent to the lower part of the western wall. In the lower part of the rib, we built the first control cairn. Height about 4100 m.

Section R1

From the control cairn, we ascend to the right along the rocks for 40 m. The rocks are smooth, with a steepness of 35-40°, and intermittent insurance through rock outcrops. We reach under a six-meter, almost sheer (80°) rock wall. In the upper part of the wall, there is an internal corner. The rocks are monolithic, with small holds, and the climbing is difficult. Two hooks are hammered into the wall.

Section R2

From the corner, we exit onto the main ledge and along the ledge to the right, we reach the base of the "gendarme". Then, along the slabs, we bypass the gendarme on the left. Further, again to the right along the scree ledges, we reach the gendarme and approach under the rock wall. The length of the section is 150 m, with intermittent insurance through outcrops.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet power!

Report

On the first ascent of the combined team of climbers from the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations to the summit of Chimtarga (5487 m) via the Southwest wall, category 5B (approximately), in the Soviet Union's 1967 alpine climbing championship in the high-altitude technical climbing category. Team leader: L. Kaluzhsky. July 23–26, 1967. Fann Mountains. Pamir

Description of the Route and its Passage

On July 23, at 8:20 AM, the ascent began with an overnight stop under the wall. Section R1 (Fig. 1, 2). The ascent up a snow-ice slope with rock outcrops takes about 3 hours. The slope's steepness ranges from 25° to 40°. Movement is in teams, simultaneous. The snow lies thinly on the ice, is heavily frozen, and thus requires frequent step cutting with an ice axe, especially on pure ice sections. We gain the first 300 m in height and reach the base of the rocks (Fig. 1). To the left, a very steep ice couloir ascends. A 5-meter vertical wall is overcome by free climbing (Section R1A). On a rock shelf, we assemble the first control cairn. Section R2. Immediately presents maximum difficulty: a 40-meter vertical chimney filled with ice (Fig. 2, 3, 4). The chimney's walls are smooth, almost without cracks. Iosif Dobkin, wearing boots with a ridged sole, leads through this challenging section, using 7 pitons. The rest of the team must climb lightly and organize rope hauling for their backpacks.

CENTRAL COUNCIL "SPARTAK" SPORTS SOCIETY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ASCENT REPORT ON CHIMTARGA PEAK — 5494 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE First Ascent The route was climbed by the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society, consisting of:

• YANOV V.F. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team captain
• SOBOLEV V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• BYCHKOV V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• GAVROSHKIN V.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• KOTOV E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member

Ii a c ii o p­t

ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. 3. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 6. Number of climbing hours — 45

I. CLASS OF ASCENT

• high-altitude technical

2. AREA OF ASCENT

• Pamir-Alay.

3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Chimtarga, 5496 m, via the right part of the southern face.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B cat. diff.
5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: Height difference of the wall section — 650 m, — — — ridge — 250 m,

Ascent Logbook

Completed in the 1974 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route — via the western wall of Chimtarga peak (5494 m)
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1150 m, average steepness 86°–87°, length of complex sections — 1020 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 318
   • ice pitons (in rock) — 10
   • ice screws — 5