1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range (Fann Mountains). 3. Chapdara Peak, 5049 m, via the right part of the NE wall. 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 5B (first ascent). 5. Route Characteristics: - Height difference — 1300 m. - Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 860 m. - Average steepness — 65° - Average steepness of the wall section — 80°

Report

on the ascent of the Artuch alpine camp instructors to Chapdara peak, 5297 m, via the NE wall (first ascent) Group composition:

• 1. Parkhomenko A.L. — Master of Sports, USSR — team leader
• 2. Shchukin V.I. — Master of Sports, USSR
• 3. Tomchik V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. Osipov O.F. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• 5. Vashenyuk E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Photo 2. Northwest wall of Chapdara. Sidelnikov's Route 1967. Kiselev's Route 1965. Photo 3. Route to Chapdara summit via northwest wall. Overnight locations. Control tours.

VII. Route Description

First Day — July 28, 1972

The team departed from a/l "Artuch" to the Alaudin Lakes area and set up a base camp. A regime of observing the route was established. The route is heavily snow-covered, but the weather seems to be settling.

Second Day — July 29, 1972

Rest and preparation for the ascent. Equipment and supplies were finalized (see Appendix). Markelov's team flew to Yaghnob; Vasiliev was sent by helicopter to take pictures of the wall. Solonnikov Viktor hiked under Chapdara's wall and chose a location for the assault camp. We observed the route through a telescope.

Third Day — July 30, 1972

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Alaudin valley
3. Chapdara peak, 5050 m, NW wall (left route)
4. Category of difficulty — 6B
5. Height difference of the route — 1740 m. Length — 1960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73° (3300–4930), including 6 category of difficulty:

• 75° (35 m)
• 80° (40 m)
• 90° (175 m)
• 95° (60 m)

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Technical
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Chapdara, 5197 m, West wall, V. Solonnikov's route
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1500 m
   • Average slope: ~70°
   • Length of sections: 2020 m. R2—200 m; R4—300 m; R5—1020 m; R6—300 m

6B. 5B cat. diff. (Not on the paperwork) — to be credited as 6B 131 PASSPORT.

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.
3. Chapdara peak via the Northwest wall.
4. 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length — 1870 m. Length of 6th grade sections — 380 m.

International Alpine Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin"

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Chapdara - Bodkhona, 5B, traverse (V. Ashanin's route, 68)

Report

on the first ascent of the Chapdara - Bodkhona traverse with ascent to Chapdara via the north ridge and descent from Bodkhona to the Bodkhona saddle, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay

Chapdara Peak. North Ridge

2005–06 MATC "Vertical-Alaudin" All Rights Reserved

Ascent to Chapdara Peak (5197 m) via the north ridge

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area, range: Fan Mountains 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: P. Chaplygina, 4500 m, via the southwest ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 350-400 m, average slope 45°, length of 5th category sections 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and creating anchor points, rock/IО ice — bolted 7. Number of climbing hours: 3.5 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: MUMDZhI T.M., CMS — leader; Nerdnikov V.M., 1st sports category; Trusenkov V.V., 1st sports category