Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route category 6B on the North-West wall of peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range, made by the AUSB "Varzob" team in 1989.

Passport

  1. Technical category
  2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
  3. Peak 4810 via the center of the Northwest wall (Rusyaev's route)
  4. 6B category difficulty
  5. Height difference: 1160 m, length: 1568 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1218 m, average steepness of the route — 67°, average steepness of the main part of the route — 74°.
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |
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Description of the passage of the 6B category route through the center of the North-West wall of Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay in 1989 by a team of climbers from Magnitogorsk.

PASSPORT 23xe I. Class of technical ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin (Kara-Su) gorge. 3. Summit peak 4810 via the Center of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route) 4. Difficulty category — 6B, fourth ascent. 5. Height difference — 1160 m, route length — 1495 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1220 m. Average steepness of the route — 68 degrees. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74 degrees. 6. Pitons driven:

RockNutsBolt pitons
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Ascent description of Peak 4810 via **Rusiaev Route** (Grade 6B) in the Kara-shiva gorge, Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.

  1. Class of technical ascents.
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Karavshin (Kara-su) valley
  3. The summit of peak 4810 via the "mirror" of the western wall (Rusyayev's route).
  4. Category of difficulty — 6B.
  5. Height difference 1160 m, route length 1495 m, length of sections 5–6 c.t. 1220 m, average steepness 68°, average steepness of the wall part of the route 74°.
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Chocks | Bolt pitons | | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | 55 / 12 | 156 / 24 | 1 / 0 |
  7. Team's working hours — 61.5 hours, days — 5.5 days.
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Description of the 6B category complexity route to Peak 4810 via the "mirror" of the western wall in Pamir-Alay, including details of the passage and tactical actions of the team.

Passport

  1. Class — technical.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak 4810 m, via the "mirror" of the western wall
  4. Complexity category — 6B.
  5. Height difference — 1150 m
  • wall — 885 m
  • Length — 1730 m
  • Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1320 m
  • of which: 6 cat. diff. — 1250 m
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Ascent to Peak 4810 along the center of the NW face of the Turkestan Range, category 6B, technically challenging ascent with an altitude difference of 1160 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class - technical
  2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak 4810 - via the center of the NW wall (A. Rusyaeva) KTM 5.4.3.II.
  4. Complexity category - 6B
  5. Height difference - 1160 m, including: wall - 885 m, length - 1730 m length of sections with 5-6 complexity category - 1410 m, including 6 category - 1330 m (3650-4535). Steepness of the wall section - 74°
  6. Pitons driven: Rock placements, bolted 123/21 267/29 25/7
  7. Team's travel hours - 61 and 6 days
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Report on the ascent of the Rostov region team to Peak Odessa via the center of the NW wall, complexity category 6B, route length 1555 m.

Report on the ascent of Peak Odessa via the center of the NW wall by the Rostov region team

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, section 5.4.3 in the 2008 classification table
  2. Peak Odessa, 4810 m, via the center of the northwest wall
  3. Category: 6B
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Wall section height difference: 1100 m Route length: 1555 m. Section lengths:
  • V–VI category: 1155 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 74°
  1. Pitons left on the route:
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Climbing passport for Peak Odessa via Kritsuk route on NW wall, 6B category of complexity, Turkestan Range, Karashin.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Region, gorges: Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin 5.4.3.
  2. Name of the peak: Peak Odessa, 4810 m, center of NW wall (Kritsuk Route).
  3. Proposed: 6B category of difficulty.
  4. Nature of the route: rock climbing.
  5. Route elevation gain: 1180 m. Route length: 1526 m. Length of sections:
    • V category of difficulty: 520 m.
    • VI category of difficulty: 836 m.
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Description of a Category III route via the northwest wall of Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, 5.4.3.
  2. Peak "4810", 4810 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
  3. Category of difficulty: 6B.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 1210 m (3600–4810). Distance: 1546 m Section distances:
  • V–VI difficulty category: 1140 m Average steepness of the wall section: 78°, entire route: 70°
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First winter ascent via the center of the Northwest wall of Peak 4810 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via Kritsuk Route, cat. 6B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.
  2. Peak 4810, 4810 m, via the center of the North-West wall, Kritsuk route
  3. 6B cat. diff. (first winter ascent, combination)
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route height difference: 1180 m Route length: 1515 m Section lengths:
  • V cat. diff. – 521 m
  • VI cat. diff. – 884 m
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Report on the ascent of a Category 6B route via the northwest wall of Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range in 1988 by a six-person team led by Alexander Shevchuk.

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge 3. Peak 4810 m, center of the northwest wall 4. Proposed 6B cat. sl. second ascent of Krishchuk's route 5. Height difference: 1160 m, length — 1480 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (3650–4670) Of these, 6B cat. sl.:

  • 80° (3650–3800, 3875–3915, 4110–4195, 4220–4280);
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