Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT BY THE TEAM OF ALPINISM SECTION NOVOSIBIRSK REGIONAL COUNCIL SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» TO THE SUMMIT ENERGY VIA THE WESTERN FACE CATEGORY 5B DIFFICULTY (APPROX.) IN ACCOUNT OF CHAMPIONSHIP CS SSS «SPARTAK» OF 1967 IN ALPINISM IN THE CLASS OF ALTITUDE-TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

1. Class of ascent: technical.
2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.

8. Six overnight stays - there are no overnight stays on the route, overnight stay at the base camp. 9. Group composition: Trofimov A.A. — 1st sports category, leader. Burlakov D.N. — 1st sports category, participant. Loginov D.N. — 1st sports category, — " — Sanddalov I.S. — 1st sports category, — " — 10. Team coach: — Karlov G.S. II. Date of departure on the route — March 11, 1972

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley.
3. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face.
4. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty.

Ascent Logbook

Completed in the 1974 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route — via the western wall of Chimtarga peak (5494 m)
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1150 m, average steepness 86°–87°, length of complex sections — 1020 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 318
   • ice pitons (in rock) — 10
   • ice screws — 5

I. CLASS OF ASCENT

• high-altitude technical

2. AREA OF ASCENT

• Pamir-Alay.

3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Chimtarga, 5496 m, via the right part of the southern face.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B cat. diff.
5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: Height difference of the wall section — 650 m, — — — ridge — 250 m,