Kyrgyz Alatau

Mountain range17,375.73 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
11

**Route documentation for a Category 6A climb to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740) via the North wall, completed in February 2000.**

Passport

  1. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
  2. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4740, via the cascades of the central part of the North face (Ruchkin's Route, 1997).
  3. 6A category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
  4. Combined.
  5. Height difference of the route: 800 m Route length: 910 m Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 540 m 6th category of difficulty — 165 m
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Climbing passport for the summit Svobodnaya Korea via Ruchkin's route (North face, 6A cat. dif.) in the Northern Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport

  1. North Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
  2. Peak name: Svobodnaya Korea, route name North wall, Ruchkin S. route
  3. Proposed - 6A cat. diff. Third ascent
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route height difference – 780 m (3960–4740) Route length – 895 m Length of sections:
    • 5 cat. diff. – 385 m
    • 6 cat. diff. – 121 m
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First ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the direct wall in winter, cat. dif. 6B, team from Omsk in 1997.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — winter
  2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
  3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m), direct route up the N wall
  4. Category 6A difficulty. First ascent.
  5. Height difference — 890 m. Distance — 910 m. Length of category 6 sections — 180 m. Average slope of the wall — 68°
  6. Number of pitons left on the route — x
  7. Number of climbing hours/days — 30.5/5
  8. Bivouacs 1–4 in a platform-tent on the wall,
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The team representing St. Petersburg has successfully completed a winter ascent via the S. Semiletkin's route (category 6A) on the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4777 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan.

St. Petersburg Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing

2015 Russian Championship

Ice and Snow Class, Correspondence Entry

Report

St. Petersburg National Team Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via North Face Semiletkin Route, 1988, Category 6A Winter Ascent St. Petersburg 2015

Ascent Passport

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Report on the winter ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via Semiletkin Route, category 6A difficulty.

MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents

Report

Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013

Passport of the ascent

  1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.
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### Description of the first ascent of the North Face of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in Tian Shan, made in November 1999 by a team of climbers from Kyrgyzstan, complexity category 6A.

Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.

Passport

  1. Winter category.
  2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
  3. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
  4. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
  5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
  6. Length of the central part 285 m.
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A description of a winter ascent to Svobodnaya Korea peak via a 6B category route, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical details.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category
    • winter
  2. Region
    • Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
  3. Object
    • Pik Svobodnaya Korea.
  4. Category of difficulty
    • 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)
  5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.
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Report on the ascent to the summit via a challenging 6A category route, detailing tactics and technical aspects.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Object — Peak Svobodnaya Korea 4. Category of difficulty — 6B, KTM 7.4.144 5. Height difference — 580 m, route length — 890 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 480 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, steepness of the wall part of the route — 81.6° (4330–4580 m). 6. Pitons driven:

RockNutsBoltsIce
144/7991/592/260/0
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Ascent to Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4777 m) via the north wall along the route of category 6B complexity, climbed by a team from the Krasnoyarsk Kraisport Committee in February 1995.

I. Technical Class

  1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
  2. Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
  3. Difficulty category 6B
  4. Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
  5. Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
  6. Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
  7. Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
  8. Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:
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Climbing description of Pik Osvobozhdennaya Koreya via the North face, 6B category of difficulty, Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
  3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
  4. 6B complexity category.

IndicatorEntire routeWallMost difficult part of the wall
Height difference
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