Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatau
3. Climbing route with summit height: second ascent via the center of the north face, Jigit Peak (5170 m)
4. Proposed difficulty category 6B
5. Climbing characteristics Elevation gain 1370 m (excluding serac icefall) Average slope 72° Length of sections 5–6 km, traverse 900 m
6. Pitons used: rock 177, for artificial climbing aids 15, ice 27, bolted 0

REPORT ON THE PARTICIPATION OF THE CS DSO “LOKOMOTIV” TEAM IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1974 SEASON The composition of the team that actually participated in the championship:

• Manshin Yu.P. — team captain,
• Volkov R.P. — deputy captain,
• Repin V.D.,
• Vodolazhsky V.K.,
• Svitov V.M. The team was supported by a rescue team and a communications group consisting of:
• Marfin V.M.,
• Shmuylovich S.G.,

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Tian Shan, Karakol gorge, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the North wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff. (Vakurin)
5. Route length — 1415 m Length of the wall part of the route — 1095 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. — 435 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 95 m
6. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 970 m
7. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 62°
8. Pitons driven: ice, rock placements, bolted, skyhooks

1. Climbing type — technical.
2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhigit, 5170 m, via the center of the N wall (V. Vakurin's route, 83).
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics — height difference 1120 m, length — 2050 m, length of 6B difficulty sections — 140 m.
6. Protection:
   • rock anchors: 97
   • ice screws: 66
   • placed nuts: 20.
7. Total climbing hours — 39.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the north face
4. 6th category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 1004 m, length 1165 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 526 m. Average steepness of the route — 64° "lower bastion" — 76° "upper bastion" — 71°

1. Technical class
2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
3. Jigit peak via the center of the North wall
4. 6B category of complexity, second ascent
5. Height difference: 1120 m, length of the wall section of the route to the ridge 1125 m, length of sections 5–6 category of complexity 750 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 77°
6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 81/21 | 0/0 | 76/25 | 26/4 |
7. Climbing hours: 29 and days 2.2

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak Jigit, via the center of the north face's kar.
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1220 m. Total route length 1565 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 715 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Category | Hammered in | Left behind | | :--------- | ----------: | ----------: | | Rock | 132 | 37 |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Jigit via bastions of the North face
4. 5B category of difficulty — possibly 3rd ascent
5. Height difference: 1270 m, length — 1400 m Length of the complex section — 1000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (bergschrund — ridge) 70° (4000–5050 m)
6. Pitons left on the route — 0 pcs. Used previously hammered pitons and not removed — 1 pc.
7. Team's travel hours: 32 h and 3 days

Ascent Log

1. Ascent Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Tian-Shan. Terskey Alatau.
3. Ascent Route: Jigit Peak, 5170 m, north wall via bastions on the left part of the cirque.
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Height difference 1180 m
   • Average steepness 73°
   • Length of complex sections 920 m
5. Pitons Driven:
   • Rock 142

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.
2. Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of NW wall.
3. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1016 m. Route length: 1165 m. Section lengths:
   • V category of complexity — 205 m
   • VI category of complexity — 200 m