Description of Mayakovsky Route, Cat. Difficulty, via the Ridge

To the north of Peak Ordzhonikidze in the Maly-Almaty spur system, the beautiful and soaring Peak Mayakovsky rises. The ascent begins from the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the terminal and lateral moraines of the Tuyuk-Su glacier in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Peak Ordzhonikidze, and 50 m before reaching the ridge, turn left. Ascend via a steep scree to the terminal part of the Western Ordzhonikidze glacier, then follow it to the ice fall. Bypass it on the right and ascend via scree at the foot of the western lateral ridge of Peak Mayakovsky, continuing to the last ridge of rocks descending from the summit. From here, ascend to the western ridge of the summit via broken, easy rocks or, further to the right, via a couloir filled with medium and fine scree. The path from the Mynzhilki weather station to the foot of the couloir takes:

• 3–4 hours Having ascended to the ridge, turn right and approach the main northern ridge of the summit. Move along its eastern side for 15–18 m. Traverse along a terrace, which is interrupted by an outer corner and leads to a narrow, almost vertical couloir, turning into a chimney with a cork in its upper part. This section of the route requires careful piton belay. From the exit of the chimney, traverse left and, after 5–6 m, ascend along the wall to a platform in front of a smooth 5-meter wall with a narrow crack. Overcome the second wall via this crack, and then exit to an inclined platform with loose rocks (be cautious!). Above the platform stands a gendarme; it is bypassed on the left via an inclined ledge. Then ascend via a sheer inner corner to the rocky tower of the pre-summit. The rocks are heavily broken.

Description of Mayakovsky Route, 3B via the South Ridge

The ascent begins with a climb to the Ordzhonikidze pass (an initial bivouac can be organized here). From there, descend towards the so-called "частокол" (palisade) and, rounding a large gendarme to the right, reach the "частокол" connecting the peaks of Ordzhonikidze and Mayakovsky. Then, ascend via scree to a narrow saddle, from which a wall with good holds leads to a slab (running belay, 1 piton). Overcoming a ridge via severely damaged rocks, approach the foot of a chimney (running belay, 2 pitons). Behind the chimney lies a ledge; an ascent via a crack leads to an inclined ledge and a second chimney (running belay, 3-4 pitons), which brings you to a ridge composed of monolithic rocks (belay via protrusions). The rocks are of medium difficulty, with challenging sections in places. Ascend along the ridge to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8-9 hours. The first ascent was made on August 18, 1945, by a group of instructors from the mountain training school, consisting of:

• N. Divari,
• N. Petrovich,
• P. Semenov, under the leadership of K. Strekalov.

Recommendations

1. The number of participants should not exceed 6 people.

Peak Mayakovsky via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 3B, "Telnyashka", I. Cherepov 1952

Having ascended the road above Mynzhilki, pass the "Black Stone" memorial, after which ascend the moraine ridge of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, along which move to the cirque of Peak Mayakovsky. At the entrance to the cirque there are:

• Campsites,
• "Kresty" campsite (a white cross is drawn on the rock nearby). Then move up along the moraine and the Ordzhonikidze West glacier until you reach its gentle part. You will be faced with "Telnyashka" — a rocky wall cut by

Mayakovskogo 4A c.t. via the Eastern Wall buttress (Aleksashina)

Route description. Descending from the initial bivouac on the Ordzhonikidze Pass to the Ordzhonikidze East Glacier, traverse along the wall of Mayakovskogo peak. Approximately from its midpoint, a ridge extends southwards, behind which the Eastern Wall with grey-black streaks rises. There's a noticeable saddle in the ridge from where the route begins. The saddle is prominent on the bright red rocks of the ridge. To the right of it, the rocks are reddish, and to the left, they are black, with a stepped structure. This is the first control point. The route proceeds as follows:

• From the saddle, ascend directly up the black, then grey rocks towards a wall with a cleft (70–80 m).
• Reach a large ledge (piton belay, 4 pitons).
• Near the wall, there's a large boulder — here, for belaying while moving in the chimney; there are cracks for piton belay.
• From here, turn left onto a small ledge behind a rock outcrop.
• Move slightly downwards, then along a wide ledge to the junction point of the routes on the southeast and east walls of Mayakovskogo peak (piton belay).
• The entire group can assemble here. The final part of the route is described in the previous section. The ascent takes 13–14 hours. Descent is from the southern side to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. This route was first laid by a group of climbers from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp under the leadership of L. Aleksashin in 1956.

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.

Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks

Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Ascent to the summit Metallurg via the North-West ridge, route 4Б cat. diff. (Fig. 49). The summit Metallurg is located in the main ridge of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, to the North-East of the Talgar massif. The approach path to the summit from the alpinist camp "Talgar" starts along the trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge and goes to the terminal moraine of the Ozerny glacier. Cross the terminal moraine and exit to the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the glacier, then:

• go along the lateral moraine,
• continue moving along the glacier. In 5-6 hours, the foot of the couloir is reached, leading to the saddle of the North-West ridge of the summit Metallurg. Here, on the moraine of the Ozerny glacier, it is possible to make the first overnight stay. There is water. The ascent to the saddle, taking an hour and a half, begins the route. On the saddle is the 1st control point. From the saddle, a small descent and going around the first gendarme along the firn slope with a steepness of up to 45°, after which the ascent begins along the first rocky wall. Height Fig. 49

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.