ОПТЭ (4480 m)
Ascent from the Shokalsky glacier via the North-Eastern ridge, route category 2A (fig. 23).
The summit of ОПТЭ is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the north of it lies the Shokalsky glacier, to the south - one of the branches of the Bogatyr glacier - the Shuitsa glacier.
From the Talgar alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge to the Shokalsky glacier. To the left of the river, ascend the steep lateral moraine of the glacier, along its upper part to a gentle sandy area. This is a possible bivouac site. From the camp - 4 hours walking.
It is possible to continue along the same moraine further to a characteristic hill with a cairn. After three hundred meters - descend to the glacier. After a kilometer and a half, cross the glacier to the right towards the scree of the eastern spur. Here is also a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the camp - 5-5.5 hours walking.
From here, follow the gentle part of the glacier. After 30-40 m, there is a steep ascent (35-40°). Beyond it lies a large crevasse, which is bypassed on the right. Approximately 200 m further, there is another crevasse - passed on the left via a snow bridge. Then there is a large plateau, from which the ascent continues up a steep, up to 50°, snow or ice slope. In the presence of ice, piton belays are necessary. The slope leads to the pass point. From the upper bivouac to the ОПТЭ pass - 4 hours walking.
From the pass to the summit, follow a snow slope with a steepness of up to 40°, which in its upper part ends in moderately difficult rocks. The exit to the summit is via a gully. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the upper bivouac takes 5-6 hours, of which 2 hours is descent.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - not more than 25-30 people.
- Initial bivouac on a sandy area or at the foot of the eastern ridge.
- Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00 and 5:00 respectively.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main rope; b) 2 ice pitons; c) 2 hammers; d) 2 carabiners.