on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons.
Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay.
Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours.
Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy rocks lead to a descent onto a snowy-icy saddle, and from it the remaining 200–300 m to the summit — along the icy-snowy northern slopes of the summit dome in the form of three huge steps. Steepness of ascent is up to 45°. Move on crampons.
The summit is a snowy dome with areas of destroyed rocks, with a cairn in them.
- From the exit to the ridge to the summit — 2–2.5 hours.
- Descent along the ridge through Toguzak Pass.
- Descent along the ascent route is not recommended, as rockfall is possible in the gully in the second half of the day.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — no more than 10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the right moraine of Toguzak Glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) rock pitons 3–4 pcs.; c) hammers 2 pcs.