Description
Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m.
The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center).
Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours.
From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m.
Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail.
Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.
Descent from the summit to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and a gendarme along a snowy slope 80 m (ice possible instead of snow - crampons required). From the saddle, descend to the left along a snowy slope (possibly scree), then along scree and grassy slopes to the original bivouac. From the saddle to the bivouac - 2-2.5 hours. The entire ascent takes 8-10 hours. The duration of the route is 2 days.
Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- Main rope - 2 × 40 m
- Repschnur - 4 × 5 m
- Slings - 4 pcs.
- Rock pitons - 5-7 pcs.
- Ice pitons - 2 pcs.
- Hammers - 2 pcs.
- Carabiners - 10 pcs.
- Tent - 1 pc.
- Stove - 1 pc.
- First aid kit
- Radio set "Vitalka"
Description compiled by: instructors:
- Turaeva S. M. 1st sports category
- Dobrynin N. G. 1st sports category
- Evstafiev B. S. II sports category
Adyl-Su tourist center 1975
