Central Asia
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the first ascent of Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge, category 2A, made by a group of climbers in 1975.
Ascent Record
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Rushan Range
- Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge (5420 m)
- Ascent characteristics:
- height difference — 700 m
- average steepness — 35–40°
- length of difficult sections — 100 m
- Pitons used:
- rock — 2
Route Description: С гребню
First ascent of Kosmonavtov Peak (5420 m) via the North Ridge, cat. 4B, Russkiy Range, Tian Shan.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent area — D.Z. Pvivr, Ruban Range.
- Ascent route — First ascent of Pik Kosmonavtov–5420 m, via the north ridge.
- Ascent characteristics: height difference — 800 m (1,000 m from the bivouac); average steepness — 45–50°; length of difficult sections — 120 m.
- Pitons hammered in: rock — 33;
Route Description: кф. Ю стены
Report on the first ascent of Peak Pathor (6080 m) via the south face in 1967 by the team from Tomsk Regional Sports Association.
For the All-Union team championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.
Peak Pathor via the south face (first ascent)
Sports team of Tomsk regional sports union.
Team captain (G. Andreev)
Tomsk
1967
Report
on the ascent of Peak Pathor via the south face.
- Geographical location and sporting characteristics of Peak Pathor. Peak Pathor is located in the central part of the Rushan range in the southwestern region of Pamir. The average height of the range in this area reaches 5500–5600 m. This is where the most significant glaciation node of the Rushan range is located. Its southern and southeastern slopes, facing the Gunt river valley, as well as the northwestern slopes, facing Bartang, are dissected by deep gorges, at the heads of which lie glaciers: Markovsky (Shtselzar), Chapdara, Safedob (southeastern slopes); Gei-Dara, Davlekh, Morsor (northwestern slopes).
Route Description: С стене
The ascent of the Varzob mountaineering camp team to Peak Patkhora via the north wall as part of the 1975 USSR Championship.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — high-altitude and technical
- Climbing area — Southwest Pamir, Rushan Range
- Climbing route — First ascent of the north face of Peak Pathor 6083 m
- Climbing characteristics: Height difference 1520 m. Average slope 65°. Length of difficult sections 700 m.
- Number of pitons: Rock pitons 163, ice pitons 55
- Total climbing hours 69 h
- Number of nights 5, including two semi-sitting nights.
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak Moskovskaya Pravaya (6077 m) in the Shakhdara ridge of the Pamir Mountains, category III, with characterization of the terrain and technical details.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- ASCENT CLASS: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- ASCENT AREA, RANGE: SW PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: P. MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVDA, 6075 m. VIA NE WALL, LEFT BASTION,
- ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m SECTION LENGTH: 5/6 km approx. 11–400 m, 11–220 m, IV–200 m, V–540 m, VI–700 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 70–75°
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
Ascent certificate for Moskovskaya Pravaya peak (6075 m) via a 5B category route in the Pamir Mountains in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- ASCENT CATEGORY: HIGH-ALTITUDE
- ASCENT REGION, RANGE: S.W. PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY
- PEAK, HEIGHT, ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVAYA, 6075 m, NE SNOW SLOPE CHANGE. THERE IS, KOMe.
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m, LENGTH: 1720 m, LENGTH OF 5b/6a sections 1000 m — slope, 320 m — ice. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 67°, I–20 sections — 78°, 1–20–82°
- PITONS DEPENDENCY:
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit, 8a complexity category, with a detailed analysis of technical elements and tactics.
08.86 R5480 m 08.86 R5300 m 08.86 R1900 m 000 m 000 m 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
Description of the 6th category route to the peak "Moskovskaya Pravda" (6075 m) in the South-West Pamir with a detailed analysis of the team's tactics and technical actions.
Passport
I. High-altitude technical class 2. South-western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzherob river gorge 3. Peak Moskovskaya Pravda 6075 m, via the right part of the NE wall (V. Solonnikova) 4. 6B category of difficulty 5. Height difference — 375 m. Technically complex part — 270 m. Length: ice — 170 m; rocks — 1100 m; ridge — 300 m; length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1000 m. Average steepness: ice — 50°; rocky wall part — 78°; overall average steepness — 75°; length of sections with 6B category of difficulty — 270 m. 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 67/II | 0+6/0+4 | 95/29 | 8/0 |
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
Description of a Category 6 difficulty route to Peak Moskovskaya Pravda (Main) via the right part of the Northeast face in the Pamir Mountains, including details of the ascent and team tactics.
Passport
I. High-altitude technical class. 2. Pamir. Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak — pik Moskovskoy pravdy (Gl) via the right part of the North-East wall. 4. 6th category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1250 m. Length — 1300 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1200 m. Average steepness — 75° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 342 | - | 68 | 3 |
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
Description of a route of the 6th category of difficulty to the summit Moskovskaya Pravda Glavnaya via the North-Eastern wall in the Shakhdarin ridge of the Pamir, climbed in 1979 by a group of mountaineers led by V. Pilipenko.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Ascent classification: High-altitude technical. 2. Ascent area: Pamir. Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak Moskovskaya Pravda Main via North-Eastern wall (V. Solonnikov's route) 4. Difficulty category: 6 5. Route characteristics: Route length — 1480 m Height difference: wall — 1200 m, to the summit — 1300 m. Average steepness — 82°, complex sections — 85°. Section lengths: