Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

The best mountaineering achievements of 1962 in the category of high-altitude ascents. Peak Tajikistan Peak «6565» (PAMIR) FIRST ASCENT Sports team Leningrad Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik" Team captain: Savvon S.M., Master of Sports of the USSR Coach: Gromov A.G., Master of Sports of the USSR

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Pik Tajikistan is located on the Southwestern Pamir in the Southeastern spur of the Shahdara Range, adjacent to Peak K. Marx (see diagram). This area was explored later than other regions of the Pamir. The first mountaineering expedition was organized in 1946 by the All-Union Committee for Physical Education and Sports. The head of the expedition's assault group, Honored Master of Sports E.M. ABALAKOV, compiled an alpinist-geographical description of this most interesting region. In recent years, the Shahdara Range has become very popular, with a number of mountaineering expeditions visiting it. Now, this area is well explored. Without going into detail about the description, as it has been done quite thoroughly by previous expeditions, we can note only the main characteristic features of the area. Here, there are very convenient and close approaches from the access roads (highways), good stable weather, and low air humidity. Almost all ridges and crests end in gorges with powerful walls. The idea of ascending Pik Tajikistan from the east arose in 1964 during the ascent of Peak Moskovskaya Pravda. From this peak, Pik Tajikistan had a very majestic and grandiose appearance. In the Zughvand gorge, the peak ended in a giant wall. Additional information about the object of ascent was obtained from Spartakovites K. KLETSKO and G. AGRANOVSKY, who observed this peak in 1964 from the slopes of Peak Engels and confirmed that

BRIEF INFORMATION ABOUT THE AREA AND OBJECT OF ASCENT

the eastern wall of Pik Tajikistan has a very large steepness and length.

4. 11.77. 4th ascent

Description of the ascent to Peak "Tajikistan" via the Kakhiani route

6B category of complexity. The group consists of 4 people:

1. Getman Igor Samuilovich
   • CMS, born 1939, secondary technical education, member of the "TADJIKISTAN" society, has been involved in mountaineering since 1959.
2. Badygin Roman Mikhailovich
   • CMS, born 1935, higher education, design engineer, junior mountaineering instructor, has been involved in mountaineering since 1960.
3. Zubovas Konstantinas Vladimirovich
   • CMS, born 1940, higher education, architect, junior instructor, has been involved in mountaineering since 1961.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

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CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE USSR IN ALPINISM 1973

Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

PEAK TAJIKISTAN 6565 via the SOUTHEAST FACE The route was traversed by the team from LENINGRAD SPORTS COMMITTEE:

• Captain MS LOGACHEV Y.A.
• Senior coach MSMSK ZHITENEV F.N. Southwest Pamir
• 1973 Photo 2. Southeast face of Peak Tajikistan. Taken from Peak LGU.

Ii a c ii o p t

ascent made at the USSR Alpine Championship in 1973. I. Class of ascent — high-altitude-technical. 2. Area of ascent — North-West Pamir. 3. Route of ascent — Peak Tajikistan 6565 North-East wall. 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference — 1250 m, average steepness of the wall — 83°, edges — 50°, length of difficult sections — 650 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 151, ice — 6, bolt — 1. 6. Number of climbing hours — 53.

List

of the TsS DSO "Trud" team that participated in the country's championship in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents, having climbed the northeast wall of Peak Tajikistan 6565 m. Participants:

• 1. Chunovkin G.A., Master of Sports — team captain
• 2. Solonnikov V.A., Master of Sports — deputy captain
• 3. Shevchenko Yu.S., 1st category — doctor
• 4. Pugachev A.D., Master of Sports