Central Asia
Route Description: с л. Вальтера или Фортамбек через БПП
SSummitMate### Ascent to Peak Kuibyshev via the Pamir Firn Plateau in 1967 Description of the route and technical characteristics of the path.
| Date | Average Steepness | Length along Highland Trails | Characteristic of the Section and Conditions of its Passage | Time | Pitons Driven | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| by terrain characteristics | by technical difficulty | by belay method | rock | |||
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| August 10, 1967 | 400 m | Moraine, glacier | Simultaneous movement | 6:30 | 1:00 | |
| Talus, destroyed rocks, snow | Simultaneous movement | 7:40 | 2:30 | |||
| 30–35° | 1×40 m | ice | piton belay | 10:35 | ||
| — | 20 m | Destroyed rocks | simple | — | ||
| — | 40 m | Ice slope | Medium difficulty | piton belay |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak Kuibyshev (6198 m) via the Southwest Face, made by the SAVO team in 1977, with a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent category: high-altitude technical (up to 6500 m) 2. Ascent area: North-Western, Pamir, l. Garmo 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: South-West wall of p. Kuibyshev, 6198 m 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, average steepness — 68.5°, length of complex section — 485 m 5. Pitons driven: rock — 178, ice — 16, bolt — — 6. Number of travel hours — 53 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: four, all sitting 8. Team name: Central Asian Military District (CAMD) 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their sports qualification:
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningrad via the South-West face from the Lipsky glacier, 6th difficulty category, made as part of the 1981 USSR Alpine Championship.
USSR Alpine Climbing Championship
High-altitude technical class.
Report
on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningradskaya Western (6470) via the Southwest wall from Lipsky Glacier, approximately category 6 difficulty.
Moscow
1981
Photo of the wall
Photo of the route profile.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Leningrad Peak (6470 m) in the Central Pamir via the Southwest Face from the Lipsky Glacier.
I. Climbing category 2. Climbing region 3. Peak, its height, climbing route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. average steepness 6. Number of pitons driven and placement elements used: rock, ice,
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent of the northeastern wall of Peak Moskva (6785 m) in the Pamir mountains via a Category 6 difficulty route, detailing preparations and tactics employed by a team of Ukrainian alpinists in 1977.
I. Climbing category — high-altitude 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Peter I Ridge 3. Peak — Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the NE wall from Fortambek Glacier 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2835 m, section lengths: III cat. diff. — 160 m, IV cat. diff. — 700 m, V–VI cat. diff. — 3515 m, including wall sections (excluding the pre-summit ridge) — 2615 m, average steepness — 75° (wall section) 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors: rock — 175, 15; ice — 101, 24; bolt — 3, 3 7. Total climbing hours — 143 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: twelve bivouacs, including one sitting and four semi-sitting due to limited platform sizes.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
SSummitMateThe ascent of the Sports Committee of the Georgian SSR team to **Pik Moskva** via the South-East wall in 1979, category 6B complexity.
Ascent in the USSR Championship in alpinism
1979
- Class of ascent - high-altitude
- Region of ascent - Pamir
- Route of ascent - Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the southeast wall.
- Characteristics of the ascent: a) height difference - 2600 m. b) average steepness of the route - 75°. c) length of the most difficult sections vertically - 1500 m.
- Number of pitons used - rock 152 (including 40 channels and placements), ice - 46, and bolted - 5.
Route Description: траверс 10-ти вершин
SSummitMateTraversing eight Pamir peaks by the team of the Alpinist Club named after A. Dzhaparidze; first ascent of the south-eastern counterfort of the Pik Nablyudeniy.
28
Georgian Climbing Club
named after A. B. Japaridze
Class of Traverses
Traverse
Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:
- G. Abashidze, Master of Sports
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the North Face of Peak OpaNina (6389 m) in the Central Pamir in 1983, description of the route and tactics of the team.
Passport
I. Altitude-Technical Class
- Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
- Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
- Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
- Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
- Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
- Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7
Route Description: траверс 3-х вершин
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak Oshanin (Trail of the Three Peaks) in 1975 by a team led by Leonid Lozovsky.
Passport
First ascent made in 1975
- Climbing category — traverse
- Climbing area — North-West Pamir
- Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
- Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Peter I Range: Oshanina, 30 Years of Soviet State and Moskva; route difficulty category.
Report
on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.
Route Characteristics
Peaks included in the traverse: