INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP "PAMIR-79"

Traverse of Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713) - Peak Lenin (7134) on July 8-14, 1979, category 5B difficulty, by a team of coaches from MAL "Pamir-79".

Participants:

1. Stepanov I.E. - MS - team leader
2. Markelov V.V. - MS - participant
3. Lurye E.R. - MS - participant
4. Kalmykov S.G. - MS - participant

Coach - Honored Coach of the RSFSR Ovchinnikov A.G. One of the highest peaks of the Trans-Alai range - Peak 6713 - was named Peak Dzerzhinsky in 1928 during a Soviet-German expedition led by N.P. Gorbunov. The honor of the first ascent to this peak belongs to a group consisting of E. Beletsky and I. Fedorov. In 1936, they made an assault on Peak Dzerzhinsky via Peak Razdel'naya (from Lenin Glacier) and ascended to the summit from the upper reaches of Dzerzhinsky Glacier along its eastern slope.

In 1960 - the year of the 90th anniversary of V.I. Lenin's birth - two top teams completed traverses (as part of the USSR Championship) of Peak Dzerzhinsky. From August 1-12, 1960, a team from the CS "Spartak" led by V.A. Abalakov completed a traverse of:

• Razdel'naya
• Peak Dzerzhinsky
• Peak Lenin
• Peak 6852
• Peak XIX Party Congress

(P - ranking in the USSR Championship).

From August 9-19, 1960, Georgian climbers led by L. Akhvlediani completed a traverse of "Peak Oktyabr'sky - Peak Lenin - Peak Dzerzhinsky" (1st place in the USSR Championship). They descended from Peak Dzerzhinsky to Koman Glacier via the north ridge. There are no further mentions of ascents to Peak Dzerzhinsky in mountaineering literature.

Only in 1979 did two teams of coaches from MAL "Pamir-79" led by V. Nevvorotin and I. Stepanov undertake an ascent - traverse of Peak Dzerzhinsky - Peak Lenin from Koman Glacier with the goal of:

• filling a gap in the classification of mountain routes in this area;
• recommending it to foreign climbers.

Note: The classification table of routes to mountain peaks in the USSR incorrectly states that Beletsky's team ascended via the north ridge.

Peak Lenin in the Trans-Alai range (view from the north)

The Komand valley and glacier are located west of the Achik-Tash valley. Apparently, it's possible to drive to the glacier tongue by car. Our two teams (due to the remote location, we worked as a joint team) flew out of the "Achik-Tash" base camp on July 8, 1979, at 17:30 and were dropped off on the lateral moraine in the upper reaches of Koman Glacier at approximately 4200 m. That evening, we thoroughly examined the north ice-and-snow ridge of Peak Dzerzhinsky and planned our route along:

• the north ice-and-snow ridge of Peak Dzerzhinsky.

July 9, 1979. We rose at 5:30 AM and departed at 7:00 AM. We crossed the glacier and immediately put on crampons. Firm firn gave way to ice. We moved simultaneously, but sometimes had to move in turns, using ice axe belays. The slope was 25-35° steep. The condition of the slope was good. From 1:00 PM to 3:00 PM, we rested on the ridge, where it was very hot; firn and ice gave way to deep snow. We worked in deep snow until 7:00 PM, reaching a plateau-like saddle between Peak Dzerzhinsky and Peak Krasin (5996 m). The approximate height was 5900 m, with 1700 m of ascent over ten hours of climbing. The weather was perfect, and it quickly became cold; we went to sleep at 10:00 PM.

July 10, 1979. We departed at 9:00 AM. The snow and firn slope was interspersed with rock outcrops. Gaining altitude was challenging. Around 1:00 PM, Nevvorotin's team stopped at 6300 m, while we, after resting, continued ascending to 6500 m, where we set up a bivouac. We created a platform on the scree ridge, and then the duo of Stepanov and Kalmykov conducted a reconnaissance of the ascent route to Peak Dzerzhinsky from 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM. The scree slope gave way to a steep ice slope of about 100 m at 40°. We used ice screws for protection (4 pieces). We reached the top and saw Peak Dzerzhinsky in the distance (to the west). It was late, so we ended the reconnaissance and descended to the 6500 m camp. Climbing hours - 6.

July 11, 1979. We rose at 7:30 AM and departed at 8:30 AM; it was cold and windy. On the ascent, we used ice screws for protection (4 pieces). On the plateau, the wind reached 20 m/s. At 10:15 AM, we reached the summit. We retrieved a note left by a team of Georgian climbers in 1960. We descended to the 6500 m camp, gathered our gear, and traversed the slope toward the saddle between Peak Dzerzhinsky and Peak Razdel'naya, then descended to the saddle. We traversed three rope lengths with thorough protection using ice screws (6 pieces). At 4:30 PM, we reached the saddle and set up a bivouac on its flat section. Climbing hours - 7, ice screws - 10.

July 12, 1979. We rose at 7:00 AM and departed at 9:00 AM. The snow was difficult and loose. Before Peak Razdel'naya, the saddle was broken, and we descended into a cirque (3 ice screws). From 1:00 PM to 2:00 PM, we rested. Then, we slowly ascended to the saddle between Razdel'naya and Peak Lenin through slushy snow. At 4:45 PM, we set up a bivouac (6100 m).

Nevvorotin's team, with whom we collaborated during the traverse of Dzerzhinsky-Lenin, decided to head back to base camp.

Our team planned to move toward Peak Lenin with bivouac gear the next day.

In the evening, V. Markelov complained of a headache - it was his first time at such altitudes - the fourth night at 6000 m. Apparently, it was too much for him. If he didn't feel better in the morning, he would descend to base camp with Konkov's team, which had already climbed Peak Lenin and was camping nearby.

July 13, 1979. We rose at 6:00 AM and departed at 7:30 AM. It was windy and cold.

V. Markelov stayed with Konkov's team to dig a cave and then descended with them to base camp.

We took with us:

• a tent,
• a stove,
• a radio,
• foam padding,
• a down sleeping bag.

The wind was extremely strong - 20-25 m/s. The route from Razdel'naya to Peak Lenin was familiar to me, as I had climbed it three times before.

At 1:00 PM, we reached 6900 m; the team was climbing well.

At 3:00 PM, we ascended to Peak Lenin. It was the first time my teammates had climbed this majestic peak.

At 3:30 PM, we began our descent.

At 7:00 PM, we returned to the camp (6100 m) on the saddle between Razdel'naya and Peak Lenin. Everything was fine; no one got frostbite.

Thus, we reached the summit in 7.5 hours and descended in 3.5 hours.

July 14, 1979. At 11:00 AM, we began our descent. The wind was strong, and it was cold. We descended via the classic route through Razdel'naya. At 3:00 PM, we reached the 4200 m camp. We dried our gear and brewed tea; the weather was perfect. Our challenging, multi-day ascent of Peak Dzerzhinsky - Peak Lenin was complete. At 8:00 PM, we were at the "Lukova" meadow, visiting with SAVO. At 9:00 PM, we were back at base camp.

Conclusion: The ascent (traverse of Peak Dzerzhinsky - Peak Lenin) is undoubtedly category 5B difficulty.

• 20 ice screws were used.
• Climbing days: 5.
• Climbing hours: 37.5.
• All nights were spent at 6000 m: four during the traverse and one on descent. Everyone's condition was good; only V. Markelov struggled with altitude adaptation, and unfortunately, he couldn't climb much of the traverse from the last night to Peak Lenin. Radio communication was stable. There were no complaints about the participants.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

The ascent to Peak Lenin from Razdel'naya has been described multiple times in mountaineering literature. Climbing hours - 7.5.