Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0
5. Total gear used on the route: 0
6. Total artificial protection points used: 0
7. Climbing days: 3 days to the summit + 1 day for descent.
8. Team: Seliverstov Sergey (leader). Belokobylsky Artem. Baibagysheva Asel. Eshmurodova Nasiba.
9. Senior coach: Popov Fedor Efimovich
10. Departure to the route: 4:00, August 20, 2021.
11. Summit ascent: 16:00, August 22, 2021.
12. Return to Base Camp: 12:00, August 23, 2021.

Climbing Chronology:

August 20, 2021. We depart from camp at 4:00. We follow the main trail. At around 5100 m, we deviate left onto Arkin's route. We navigate through crevasses at some points. We trailblaze. At 5400 m, we dig a platform for the tent and establish Camp 2. August 21, 2021. Departure at 7:00. Trailblazing. Nearing 6000 m, Nasiba becomes unwell. We take her backpack. The snow makes for a quite strenuous passage. At 6200 m, we dig a platform for the tent and set up Camp 3. August 22, 2021. Nasiba stays at camp. Her condition is normal, but she's afraid of letting the team down. We start at 4:00. Continuous trailblazing. On average, the snow is knee-deep. It's tough. The alpine style and lack of acclimatization take their toll. Due to the large amount of snow, we decide to reach the ridge earlier than the couloir that Arkin's route follows. By 16:00, we reach the Summit! We rest a bit and head down. We descend quickly. We make it back before dark. August 23, 2021. A strong wind blows throughout the night. In gusts, it feels like it will blow away the tent. The vestibule tears. We depart around 8:00. We rope up and head down. We move quickly on the first part. We take a break to eat and then head to Base Camp.

Photo Report:

Ascent to Camp 2

Ascent to Camp 3

Camp 3

Summit Push

On the Ridge

Summit!