First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro region
2. Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route)
3. 6A category of difficulty, variation
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
2. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
3. Submitted as category 6B complexity
4. Route type – combined
5. Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0

Ascent Passport

1. Karakoram mountain system
2. Broad Peak, 8048 m
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. West Ridge of the North Ridge, Austrian 1957, combined
5. Route height difference — 2946 m. Route length — 5714 m.
6. Pitons used on the route (Korean expedition pitons): total — 52 left on the mountain — 52

Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011

Report

Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan. Team leader: Kopteva M.V. Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V. St. Petersburg, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
2. Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.

Open XIX EAAC Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report on the ascent of the national team of FAiS, Kiev (Ukraine) to the summit of Amin Brakk (5850 m) via the Western wall. "Czech Express" route. Category 6B. Karakoram. Pakistan. July 2010. CIS Championship in the high-altitude technical class. Team coach: Lavrenko A.V. Team leader: Kopteva M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Karakoram, Nangma Region
2. Amin Brakk peak via the Northwest wall.

Report

On the ascent of Amin Brakk peak, 5850 m, via the west face, Karakoram. June 15 – July 30, 2004, cat. diff. 6B Russian Championship in the high-altitude technical class

• Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation
• Coach: Yu.P. Tinin
• Leader: V.V. Rozov
• Moscow 2004

Passport

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023.

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude category.
2. Himalayas, Tibet, China, Rongbuk Glacier.
3. Everest 8848 m via the center of the North Face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route elevation gain: 2648 m. Route length: 5350 m. Section length: Cat. diff. – 740 m, Cat. 1 diff. – 150 m. Average steepness of the main route section – 46°.
6. Hooks left on the route: approximately 140; including pitons: 0. Hooks used on the route: more than 300. Total IT used: 40.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

• length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.

6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area: China, Tibet — Himalayas, Rongbuk gorge.
3. Peak: Everest (8848 m) via the Northeast ridge through the North Col.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain (from ABC camp) 2450 m, distance (from ABC) 6000 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. complexity — 25 m 6th cat. complexity — none

6. Number of pitons driven:

rock placements ice screw pitons snow anchors