Ascent Record for Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m via East Counterfort, Category 3B

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek Gorge, section 6.1.1.
2. Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m, via East Counterfort.
3. Category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 595 m, average slope 45°.
6. Pitons used: 25 rock and nut protection.
7. Team's climbing time — 9 hours.
8. No overnight stops on the route.
9. Team members: Kikina E.I. 1st sports category Afanasiev A.E. Master of Sports Ilyinsky V.A. 3rd sports category Perelyaeva A.S. 3rd sports category
10. Coach: Afanasiev A.E., Master of Sports.
11. Ascent and descent on May 8, 2012.

Route Description for Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m via East Counterfort, Category 3B

Approach to the route from the base camp at the forest boundary takes 4 hours. It's more convenient to belay on a ledge under the rock wall at the start of the 4A route to Eskadrilya 3-ya. Then, cross left-up a couloir between 1st and 3rd Eskadrilya to the start of the second ledge on the West Counterfort. This is the start of the route. Section R0–R1: 120 m, 45° I+. Snow ledge left-up along the rocks. One hour of work from the start of belaying. Protection through rock protection points (4 pitons). Exit to the counterfort. Section R1–R2: 30 m, 30° I−. Snow ridge. Section R2–R3: 45 m, 65° IV−. Rock slab right-up to a balcony (5 pitons). Section R3–R4: 15 m, 60° III+. Slab slightly left to the counterfort ridge. Section R4–R5: 60 m, 60° III+. Counterfort ridge. Unstable rocks (3 protection points). Section R5–R6: 20 m, 20° I+. Snow ridge. Section R6–R7: 40 m, 45° II−. Snowy rocks to the right of the counterfort. 2 hours of work from the start of the counterfort. Section R7–R8: 35 m, 85° V−. Large-block rock outer corner (5 protection points). Crux of the route. Section R8–R9: 50 m, IV−. Sharp rock ridge with two dips of 4 and 7 meters, unpleasant (4 protection points). Further, the counterfort leads to a gendarme on the left of the summit on the ridge crest and becomes significantly more complicated. The summit is visible on the right; climbing the gendarme is illogical. Continue moving in the direction of the saddle between the gendarme and the summit, i.e., to the right of the counterfort. Section R9–R10: 60 m, 40° I+. Snow ledge to the right. Section R10–R11: 45 m, 50° II+. Snowy rocks. Section R11–R12: 50 m, 50° III−. Steep loose snow on slabs (4 protection points). Exit to the saddle between the gendarme on the left and Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak on the right. Section R12–R13: 25 m, 30°. Scree slope. Ascent to the summit of Eskadrilya 1-ya.

Descent to the saddle between 1st and 2nd Eskadrilya and further east down the couloir, which in its middle part passes under the counterfort of 2nd Eskadrilya, and in the lower part is a couloir between 1st and 3rd Eskadrilya. In the upper part of the couloir — 3 rappel ropes. In case of avalanche danger, the couloir must be cleared of snow with rocks.

6. Technical photo of the Category 3B route to Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak.

7. Start of section R2–R3.

8. Section R2–R3.

9. Section R4–R5.

10. Section R6–R7.

11. Section R7–R8, crux of the route.

12. Section R8–R9.

13. On the summit of Eskadrilya 1-ya.

14. Descent via the couloir between 1st and 2nd Eskadrilya.