Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Eskadrilya 1st – 3rd peak, 3177 m, via North slope, traverse.
3. Proposed 2A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasyeva A. A., leader Afanasyev A. E. Kikina E. I. Maklakova I. Pezhemskaya T. B. Pirog M. V. Strelkov I. Tutolmin A. Tsarkov A.
10. Coach Afanasyev A. E., Master of Sports
11. Departure to the route and return on May 4, 2004.

Description of the ascent route to Eskadrilya 1st – 3rd peak via North slope, traverse

Description. 2A cat. diff.

The approach from the base camp on the forest boundary through the Belый Иркут gorge to per. 26 Partsezda takes 5 hours. From the pass to the start of the route along the snowy-rocky ridge between the basins of Белый Иркут and Жохой rivers is about 200 meters. The route begins with a traverse to the left towards the Eskadrilya peak glacier. Sect. 0–1, 150 m, 40°, 1+. Traverse left along the snowy slope on the slabs. Sect. 1–2, 100 m, 40°, 1-. Snow slope of the glacier. Sect. 2–3, 200 m, 30°, 1-. Snow slope of the glacier. Sect. 3–4, 200 m, 45°, 1+. Firn slope of the glacier. Sect. 4–5, 40 m, 45°, 2-. Rocky ridge, North. Ascent to Eskadrilya 1st peak. Sect. 5–6, 50 m, 45°, 2-. Descent along the East ridge to the saddle with snowy cornices to the right. Sect. 6–7, 60 m, 40°, 1-. Hard névé. Ascent to Eskadrilya 2nd peak. Sect. 7–8, 60 m, 35°, 1-. Further along the East ridge, descent to the saddle with huge cornices to the right. Caution! Sect. 8–9, 30 m, 0°, 1-. Along the ridge, bypassing large rocks to the left. Sect. 9–10, 30 m, 45°, 1+. Hard névé. Sect. 10–11, 20 m, 25°, 1-. Ridge, large boulders. Ascent to Eskadrilya 3rd peak. Descent to the saddle between the 2nd and 1st peaks and down via the ascent route.