Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Pasmurkaya peak, 3460 m, via the North-West spur.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is of a combined nature.
5. Height difference 270 m, length 370 m, average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired - 5 pieces, ice - 2.
7. Team's travel hours - 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasyev A. E. MS Klepikov E. A. III sports category Kurgansky N. G. I sports category
10. Coach Afanasyev A. E. MS
11. Exit to the route and return on May 7, 2003

Description of the ascent route to Pasmurkaya peak 3460 m via the North-West spur category 2B difficulty.

Sect. R0–R1. 60 m, 40°, 3–. Ice slope. Insurance through ice screws. Sect. R1–R2. 30 m, 45°, 2–. Rocky snow-filled couloir. Sect. R2–R3. 10 m, 50°, 2+. Wide trough-shaped couloir. Sect. R3–R4. 70 m, 45°, 2–. Snowy side, fine scree. Sect. R4–R5. 60 m, 55°, 2+. Broken rocks leading to the spur ridge. Control cairn. Sect. R5–R6. 45 m, 50°, 3–. Rocky ridge. Approach to 4 "fingers". Sect. R6–R7. 20 m, 0°, 2+. Traverse left from the "fingers" across a 30-degree slab. Sect. R7–R8. 10 m, 45°, 2+. Exit to the ridge. Sect. R8–R9. 15 m, 40°, 2–. Snowy ridge. Sect. R9–R10. 15 m, 70°, 4+. Monolithic cracks. Sect. R10–R11. 15 m, 0°, 4–. Sharp monolithic ridge. Sect. R11–R12. 20 m, 40°, 1+. Large rocky ridge. Exit to the summit. Descent along the NE ridge to the saddle with Leonova peak and westward - down the snowy slope.

Pasmurkaya peak 3450 m via the North-West spur category 2B difficulty.

Pasmurkaya peak route 25 Pasmurkaya peak 2B category difficulty. R0–R1 R1–R2 Pasmurkaya peak 25 R9–R10 R10–R11