Ascent Passport

Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mugovek gorge, section 6.1.
Opasnaya peak, 3150 m, via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress.
Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
Route type — rock climbing.
Height difference 500 m, length 778 m, average steepness 55°.
Pitons hammered in: rock and chock stones 75 pieces.
Team's travel hours — 18 hours.
No overnight stays on the route.
Group: Afanasyev A.E. MS Antonov E.V. CMS Vasilkov D.N. 2nd sports category
Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS
Route reconnaissance — May 4, ascent to the summit and descent — May 5, 2003.

Route description for ascending Opasnaya peak 3180 m via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress, 5A category of difficulty.

Sect. R0–R1 20 m. 60° IV+ Crack upwards to the left. Sect. R1–R2 30 m. 80° V– Crevice upwards slightly to the left. Sect. R2–R3 40 m. 85° V+ Crevice in a small inner corner. Exit to a ledge. Control point. Sect. R3–R4 15 m. 40° I Traverse along the ledge to the right. Sect. R4–R5 35 m. 85° V+ Crack in the right part of the ledge upwards to the right. Sect. R5–R6 8 m. 60° IV– Series of small ledges upwards to the right. Sect. R6–R7 20 m. 85° V+ Inclined crevice upwards to the right, passing through a 7-meter chimney with a right wall-flake. Sect. R7–R8 25 m. 80° V– Inner corner. In the middle part, a 5-meter Zalsug. Sect. R8–R9 40 m. 55° III– Series of snowy ledges. Sect. R9–R10 45 m. 45° I+ Snowy ridge. Sect. R10–R11 25 m. 50° IV+ Slab to the right, bypassing a rocky outcrop. Sect. R11–R12 40 m. 50° III– Destroyed rocks, snow. Exit to the ridge of the buttress. Sect. R12–R13 30 m. 65° IV+ Blocky rocks. Sect. R13–R14 15 m. 40° I+ Snowy ridge. Sect. R14–R15 40 m. 50° III+ Mossy rocks with a slope to the right. Sect. R15–R16 10 m. 40° II– Snowy ledge upwards to the left. Sect. R16–R17 40 m. 40° II– Snowy ridge. Sect. R17–R18 15 m. 40° III+ Ledge to the right. Sect. R18–R19 30 m. 60° IV– Inner corner. Sect. R19–R20 20 m. 55° III+ Mossy slabs. Sect. R20–R21 45 m. 65° IV– Traverse to the left with a 5-meter pendulum through an inner corner to the next inner corner. Second control point. Sect. R21–R22 50 m. 55° III+ Inner corner continues. Sect. R22–R23 40 m. 30° I– Snowy ridge. Sect. R23–R24 20 m. 40° II– Snowy rocky slope. Sect. R24–R25 80 m. 5° I+ Summit ridge of Opasnaya peak.

Descent via a 2A category route. The avalanche-prone couloir needs to be cleared with rocks. Opasnaya peak 3180 m via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress, 5A category of difficulty.

Opasnaya peak 3180 m via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress, 5A category of difficulty.

Rock Pitons	Chock Stones	Section	Difficulty	Length	Steepness
		R25
		R24	I+	80 м	5°
		R23	II–	20 м	40°
		R22	I–	40 м	30°
1	2	R21	III+	50 м	55°
1	3	R20	IV–	45 м	65°
1	2	R19	III+	20 м	55°
2	3	R18	IV–	30 м	60°
1	2	R17	III+	15 м	40°
	1	R16	II–	40 м	40°
1		R15	II–	10 м	40°
	3	R14	III+	40 м	50°
		R13	I+	20 м	40°
2	2	R12	IV+	30 м	65°
	3	R11	III–	40 м	50°
1	2	R10	IV+	25 м	50°
1		R9	I+	45 м	45°
	3	R8	III–	30 м	60°
1	4	R7	V–	25 м	80°
2	5	R6	IV+	40 м	40°
1		R5	IV–	8 м	60°
1	3	R4	V+	35 м	85°
3		R3	I–	15 м	40°
1	7	R2	V+	40 м	85°
1	5	R1	V–	30 м	80°
1	3	R0	IV+	20 м	60°