Ascent passport.

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Trudnaya peak, 3185 m, via East counterfort.
3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m,
6. Route length: 675 m, average slope: 60°.
7. Pitons used: rock and wired — 75 pcs.

East counterfort. 3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height difference: 500 m,

length: 675 m, average slope: 60°. 6. Pitons used: rock and wired — 75 pcs.,

bolted — 3 pcs.

7. Team's travel time — 18 hours.

8. No overnight stays on the route.

9. Team:

   • Afanasiev A.E. MS

Muravyev O.Yu. CMS Krivosheev K.P. 2nd sports rank

10. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS
11. Route reconnaissance — August 6, 2009, ascent — August 7, 2009, descent — August 8, 2009.

Description of the ascent route to Trudnaya peak 3185 m via Southeast counterfort, cat. 5A.

Approach to the route from the base camp at the forest boundary takes 2 hours 30 minutes. The route can be started from the right of the ridge along a ledge or from the left — up the rope along a ledge leading to the ridge of the counterfort. Sect. 0–1, 20 m, 80°, IV+, Inner corner to the right of the ridge. Upper part has a rock plug and a slight overhang. Sect. 1–2, 40 m, 40°, III — System of inclined ledges along the ridge. Sect. 2–3, 45 m, 65°, IV — Slabs to the left of the ridge. (If starting from the left along the ledge, this section becomes the first). Sect. 3–4, 35 m, 60°, III+ — System of slabs and grassy ledges. Sect. 4–5, 30 m, 55°, III — System of slabs and grassy ledges. Sect. 5–6, 10 m, 90°, V — Rocky, icy gutter. Sect. 6–7, 15 m, 40°, I+ — Snowy couloir. Sect. 7–8, 20 m, 85°, V — Rocky wall. Sect. 8–9, 30 m, 65°, IV+ — Rocky gutter filled with ice. Sect. 9–10, 20 m, 80°, V — Destroyed, rugged wall. Sect. 10–11, 30 m, 85°, V+ — Inclined chimney to the right. Left side overhangs. Key section of the lower bastion of the route. Sect. 11–12, 20 m, 50°, III+ — Snow-ice couloir. Sect. 12–13, 30 m, 70°, V — Icy chimney. Passed on the left side. Sect. 13–14, 25 m, 50°, III — Frozen, snowy, icy couloir. End of the section has a control cairn on a bolted piton. Sect. 14–15, 50 m, 85°, V — Destroyed rocky wall. Exit to the upper, gentle ridge of the counterfort, leading to a global ledge at the foot of the summit tower. Sect. 15–16, 40 m, 30°, II+ — Sharp snowy ridge. Sect. 16–17, 30 m, 65°, IV — Bypass of a gendarme on the left along an icy slab. Exit to a large ledge, from which one can descend to the right upwards via Solnechnaya or to the left downwards between Opasnaya and Trudnaya. Sect. 17–18, 50 m, 90°, VI — Grey wall along the center of the outer corner of the summit tower. Large, destroyed blocks. Exit to the left of the final, overhanging gendarme onto a balcony (2 meters) made of destroyed, hanging blocks. Sect. 18–19, 15 m, 85°, V+ — Rocks, exit to the ridge on the left. Sect. 19–20, 20 m, 45°, III+ — Snowy ridge with rock outcrops. Sect. 20–21, 20 m, 80°, V — Rocky wall. Sect. 21–22, 80 m, 45°, III+ — Pre-summit ridge. Sect. 22–23, 20 m, 30°, I — Summit slope of Trudnaya peak. Descent can be made via three options: 1) Along the couloir with two drops to the northwest and further via Belый Irkut gorge. 2) Rappel towards Solnechnaya and further bypassing the Summit tower along a ledge to the right and via route 2B. 3) Descent and ascent (1 rope of medium difficulty) to Opasnaya peak and further via route 2A.□.

2. Trudnaya (5A)