Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Eskadrilya 1-ya peak, 3177 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons: 1 rock and wired piton used.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:
   • Afanasyeva A.A. leader
   • Afanasyev A.E.
   • Kikina E.I.
   • Maklakova I.
   • Pezhemskaya T.B.
   • Pirog M.V.
   • Strelkov I.
   • Tutolmin A.
   • Tsarkov A.
10. Coach: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports
11. Departure to the route and return: May 4, 2004.

Route description for ascending Eskadrilya 1-ya peak via the North face, cat. 1B

The approach from the base camp on the forest border along the Belyy Irkut gorge to the 26 Partsezda pass takes 5 hours. From the pass to the start of the route along the snow-scree ridge between the Belyy Irkut and Zhokhoy river basins is 200 meters. The route starts with a traverse to the left towards the Eskadrilya peak glacier. Sec. 0–1, 150 m, 40°, I+ — Traverse left along a snowy slope on slabs. Sec. 1–2, 100 m, 40°, I− — Snow slope of the glacier. Sec. 2–3, 200 m, 30°, I− — Snow slope of the glacier. Sec. 3–4, 200 m, 45°, I+ — Firn slope of the glacier. Sec. 4–5, 40 m, 45°, II− — Rocky ridge, North. Ascent to Eskadrilya 1-ya peak. Descent via the same route.