Ascent passport to v. Kazak, 2507 m, via the Southern ridge, cat. III.

Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Bryanskogo (Vetryany district) valley, section

6.1.2. 2. Kazak peak (2507) via the Southern ridge. 3. Proposed category: III, first ascent. 4. The nature of the route is rocky. 5. Height difference 457 m, length 800 m, average slope 37°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Group:

Afanasyev A.E. MS Vorobyov P.Yu. 3rd sports category Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports category Marchukov K.F. 2nd sports category Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports category Senatorov A.V. 3rd sports category Tashlykov V.A. 3rd sports category

Ascent to the summit and return on April 27, 2011.

Description of the ascent route to v. Kazak (2507 m) via the Southern ridge, cat. III.

From the base camp at Serebryanoe lake to the foot of the mountain 3 hours walk through the Bryanskogo valley.

The start of the route is at the foot of the mountain, at the bottom of the eastern exposure couloir at an altitude of 2050 m above sea level.

Sec. 0–1 500 m, 35°, I+ cat. sl. The southern ridge of Kazak peak is accessed via the eastern couloir from a height of 2050 to a height of 2374. Exit to the saddle. The couloir may be avalanche-prone in winter!

Sec. 1–2 20 m, 20°, I– cat. sl. To the left along the slope.

Sec. 2–3 30 m, 35°, I+ cat. sl. Couloir to a height of 2401 m. A piton is needed in the upper part.

Sec. 3–4 40 m, 45°, II+ cat. sl. Rocky, snow-covered internal corner. 3 pitons.

Sec. 4–5 15 m, 40°, II– cat. sl. Grass-covered, snow-covered slope. Anchor piton.

Sec. 5–6 20 m, 55°, III– cat. sl. Rocky slope. 2 pitons.

Sec. 6–7 15 m, 0°, II+ cat. sl. Sharp ridge.

Sec. 7–8 35 m, 50°, III– cat. sl. To the right of the ridge. 3 pitons.

Sec. 8–9 10 m, 50°, III– cat. sl. To the right along the rocky slab. Protection with wired.

Sec. 9–10 7 m, 10°, III– cat. sl. Sharp ridge with vertical walls. 1 piton.

Sec. 10–11 15 m, 40°, III– cat. sl. Slab on the ridge is traversed on the right side. Piton protection.

Sec. 11–12 35 m, 10°, I+ cat. sl. Snow-covered ridge.

Sec. 12–13 10 m, 10°, I+ cat. sl. To the left of the ridge on snow.

Sec. 13–14 25 m, 40°, I+ cat. sl. Scree, snow-covered ridge.

Sec. 14–15 30 m, 30°, I– cat. sl. Summit snow ridge. Along the ridge to the summit of Kazak 2507 m.

Descent is via the ascent route. This route can also be accessed via the western couloir from Kuku-Shulun valley.

UIAA table v. Kazak, 2507 m, cat. III.

Kazak peak	Length, m	Slope, α°	Difficulty, b	Number of pitons driven
				pitons, pcs	wired x
□
	30	30	II–
	25	40	II–
	10	10	II+	1
	35	10	II–		1
	15	40	III–	1	1
	7	10	III–	1
:--:	:--:	:--:	:--:	:--:	:--:
	10	50	III–	1
	35	50	III–	2	1
	15	0	II+
	20	55	III–		2
	15	40	II–		1
	40	45	II+	3
	30	35	I+	1
	20	20	I-
	500	40	I+	1