Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy Ridge, Kharimta gorge, section 6.1.
2. Doktor Peak, 2627 m, via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference 400 m, length 800 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 6 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Afanasyev A.E. MS Vasiliev M.Y. novice Golendukhin V.V. novice Golovin V.V. novice Volodov A.N. novice

10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS
11. Ascent to the summit and return on September 7, 2005.

Description of the ascent route to Doktor Peak (2627 m) via the North Ridge, category 2A.

Approach to the northern cirque via the Kharimta river valley. From the cirque, left — south along the northern couloir — 600 m scree or a bit earlier on the grassy slope. Exit onto the North Ridge.

Sect. 0–1 40 m. 20° I — Marble ridge, destroyed. Sect. 1–2 40 m. 25° I — Left of the ridge. Sect. 2–3 30 m. 10° I — Destroyed ridge under a sharp gendarme. Sect. 3–4 30 m. I — Bypassing the gendarme on the right on a 40° slope. Sect. 4–5 70 m. II — Traversing a sharp ridge. Gymnastic belay. Climbing through ledges with loose rocks. Sect. 5–6 80 m. I+ — Bypassing the second gendarme on the right on a 50° slope. Sect. 6–7 40 m. 60° III — Sharp ridge, exit to the summit.

Descent via the ascent route to section 5, then down the eastern slope with 2 rappels and along the scree couloir to the base camp.